Dior SS20 Is Exquisitely Clean Tailoring and Collaborative RIMOWA Cases

Dior‘s impressive ascension under Kim Jones’s direction continues with the luxury house’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Rife with collaborations that notably include artist Daniel Arsham and RIMOWA, the menswear offering is stunningly clean, blending streetwear-friendly branding with mature tailored garments.

Like the Hajime Sorayama-centric Pre-Fall 2019 offering, this collection emphasizes clean lines and a timeless color palette to emphasize the covetable accessories, Matthew M. Williams-designed hardware and Arsham-inspired wares. The latter comes by way of unfettered trench coats and pale slacks, a nod to the artist’s personal uniform, while Arsham’s Future Relic series inspires the collection’s desaturated, earthy palette and a faux-cracked T-shirt.

Elongated belts, boxy work shirts and Oblique logo undershirts crop up in the collection, bolstering the louche suiting with youthful appeal. Elsewhere, safari caps and wide scarves shield the wearer from the sun, while skin-tight knitwear and sheer short-sleeved shirts lend primary color pops to the proceedings. Illustrative floral separates, buttery leather jackets and draping scarf-like attachments reinforce the sumptuousness attitude that Dior trades on.

Luxe textiles inform the offering’s crocodile leather jumpsuits and flowing silk shirts, while double-breasted jackets and carrot-cut trousers grant the range an effortlessly sophisticated attitude. Like the relaxed suiting, a faded newspaper print calls to the brand’s heritage, finding its way onto shirts, socks, B23 sneakers and a series of collaborative RIMOWA bags, the first union between the luggage label and Dior. To further distinguish the cases, each boasts a bespoking anodizing process that sees vibrant pigments blended directly in the aluminum shell; this embeds unique, vibrant colors into each item, permanently.

The fellow LVMH-controlled brand contributes a variety of thematic shoulderbags, clutches and full-sized luggage, a natural marriage of each labels’ sleek aesthetics. Yoon‘s head-turning jewelry continues to evolve each season, with chunky “DIOR” rings, necklaces and earrings all offered in a wide array of colors and makeups. Glossy eyewear, wallets and backpacks round out the expansive accessories offering, along with an Arsham-approved deconstructed cap, several new iterations of Dior’s Saddle bag and a wide array of running shoes and boots.



Obra Makes Socially Conscious Sneakers (and They're Running-Shoe Comfy, Too)


Sure, the staple Canvas Low from Obra, a new sneaker line from two industry vets, is a handsome shoe. Custom cream-colored foxing—the rubber strip joining the upper and midsole—makes it stand out. So does the big blue pull-on strap on the back. But the real juice is inside, founders Arnaud Delecolle and Dave Cory explain.

With Obra’s signature shoe, they had one goal: “Improve on the fit and wearability of a vulcanized product, which are historically appealing but not the most comfortable when you wear them all the time,” Delecolle explains over the phone. “Your knees get tired after a while, it's not the best.”

The fix? A drop-in, tech-y liner—“essentially the equivalent to a running shoe's midsole,” he says, “but in the form of a footbed. It’s a dual-density, thermo-formed EVA insole lined with high-tech microfiber.” And it works. “I've been wearing my test shoes like eight months straight, day in and day out,” Delecolle says. “I've actually used the insoles in my running shoes to test them out. So we've accomplished a product that looks traditional, in a sense, and utilitarian, but that's sort of tech on the inside.” As Cory puts it, “It's thick and cushy under your foot.”

In a never-more-saturated sneaker market—and one in which even the humble canvas vulcanized shoe is getting regular fashion upgrades—innovation is hard to come by. But the Obra fellas were well-positioned to find it. Delecolle founded Lower East Side streetwear emporium Alife back in 1999, and had moved onto other projects. Cory had been at Converse, helping shepherd that brand’s One Star back to the top of the sneaker heap. Delecolle was missing the sneaker world, and wanted to find a way to update his old business model with an emphasis on ethical, sustainable manufacturing and a community focus. Cory was feeling hemmed in at Converse, making a lifestyle product for a performance company. So they linked up, and Obra—Portuguese for construction, but also for a work of art—was born.

Source: GQ


Gucci Drops GG Pattern-Emblazoned Suit & Patch Cap Set


Gucci has returned with a classic spin on its tan lacquered logo pattern, offering up a blazer and jogger suiting combination alongside a beige, patch-emblazoned cap. Offered up in a cotton-blend canvas, the newly released blazer features a notched lapel collar, tonal button closure at the front, and patch pockets at the chest and waist. The piece is finished off with three patch pockets on the interior, as well as a tonal beige satin lining. The trousers offer a mid-rise, four-pocket construction, and styling, finished off with a drawstring waist and zip-fly. The patch cap utilizes the same exterior fabric, with a leather logo patch in brown featuring a logo stamp in gold-tone on the front, finished off with a velcro fastening system, gold-tone hardware, and twill lining.

If you’re interested in picking up the set or individual piece, they are available at SSENSE’s web store between $430 USD and $2900 USD.



Off-White Spring 2020 Menswear


The opening look and most of the closing, women’s included, at this Off-White show were made in collaboration with the New York artist Futura—aka Lenny McGurr. His vivid spray strokes and sleekly alien Pointman figure were incorporated as print or jacquard into suiting, soft trenches, cycling vests, denim, a blanket, and evening dresses. As Virgil Abloh sketched it in his long sentences backstage: “In his lifetime, and in the culture that we come from, which is a segment of hip-hop and graffiti, [his work] started out being seen as a form of vandalism, not art. . . . But as well as painting on the side of subway trains, he was part of the scene and showed with Basquiat and Keith Haring. . . . . He was on what was once thought of as the fringe. . . . but now, through time, we can see that the beauty of Basquiat is also the beauty of Lenny, Futura.”

That transition from the counterculture—the fringe—to become both the subject of establishment acclaim and an agent of change within the establishment mirrors Abloh’s own path: In the 10 years since he was photographed by Tommy Ton with Kanye West and crew outside Comme des Garçons, Abloh has completed the full loop. But reflecting on the longer span of Futura’s journey—combined with his own recent project curating his past body of work for the “Figures of Speech” exhibition in Chicago—has made Abloh consider a bigger picture. “When I make things, I look at it on a scale of 30 years. What gives the esteem and the energy . . . I know the work has to mean something now, but I’m also thinking about what it means when you zoom out.”

There was certainly a sense of space in time in some of this collection. Its span of reference was broad but as legibly interconnected as the branding on the new Nike Dunk, codesigned with Futura, that made its debut on Abloh’s carnation-field runway. The chain-link fence pattern on bags, jackets, and a semitransparent poncho played nicely against the densely hand-knit sweaters that bore patches declaring membership in the “Off-White climbing club.”

Climbing was not only this collection’s second big theme—reflected in the drawstrings worked into suiting, the technical luggage, and the nylon patched knit faux fleeces—but it was also part of the broader metaphor at play. A sky blue suede trench with detachable front pockets, a double-layered floral-print down jacket and shorts, a chain-link knit off-white shirt and shorts, plus the recut denim template workwear in washed and treated technical fabrics were all highly polished and finished pieces. Conversely, the tie-dyed cargo pants (sometimes crystal set) and denim, the bandana-patched T-shirts, those dense knit sweaters, and bleached flannel shirting were all designed to appear roughened and weathered.

In a piece of tape played before the show, Bjork spoke about the “spaced-outness” of perspective, nurtured through the landscape of Iceland, that helped her learn songwriting. Abloh seems to be in search of a similar panoramic point of view—an apex position—and the topography of the clothes he is producing as he makes that ascent is benefiting from it.

Source: VOGUE


DOTC Doggies on the Catwalk Event + Fashion Show 2019

The 12th annual DOTC - Doggies on the Catwalk event and fashion show was one for the books! It was an incredible evening of fashion and philanthropy. Hosted for a second year at the beautiful 25th floor of Greenberg Traurig in Buckhead, guests enjoyed lite-bites, The Macallan cocktails and Emerald Hare Rose, complimentary make-up touches by DIOR Beauty, fashion illustrations to take home and of course, service dog puppies to hold.

Emcees Tad & Kara from the Tad, Drex & Kara Morning Show on b98.5 did an amazing job interacting with guests and brought the right level of energy to the event. After auctioning off a Tiffany’s & Co dog bowl, collar and leash, the heart of the event took center stage. A big (and successful) change to the programming this year included honoring four service dog recipients from Canine Assistants. They took to the ‘catwalk’ with the service dog while their story was shared with guests. While it was an emotional moment, it helped guests see first hand what the mission of DOTC really is. During his heartfelt greeting to guests, founder E. Vincent Martinez asked guests to “not lose sight” of why we’re all here.

The evening closed with a dynamic runway show of mens and womenswear looks by Saks Fifth Avenue. DJ Ryan Noise set the tone for the hottest and latest Spring Summer looks from Balmain, Saint Laurent, Fendi, Burberry, Oscar de la Renta, The Row and many more fabulous labels to include covet-worthy shoewear by Louboutin, Dior, Givenchy and Raf Simons.


Father's Day Style for the Modern Gent

Calling all Dad’s - let’s upgrade your style this Father’s Day! Our friends at Monck Mason Clothiers and I have a few styling tips for you. Don’t worry, they’re easy!

First up and above everything, good style is about good fit. When shopping, buy your size. And even if the garment still feels a little too loose, or the pant or shorts are a little longer than you wish, you can have them tailored. (It’s not expensive!)

Pay attention to detail. Pocket squares, watches, no show socks vs. regular socks. Embrace them all to attain a modern look to your personal style.

Lastly, for now, consider bringing a “wow-factor” to any look with super cool shoes. Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone, literally, and experiment. You may like the results.


Ka Wa Key Spring/Summer 2020 Collection

ka-wa-key nyfwm fashionado

KA WA KEY presented SS20 collection titled "What happens in grandpa's closet stays in grandpa's closet" at the NYMD during NYFW: Men's. The collection is inspired and is interpretation of old sailor wear and clothes our grand parents would have worn when they were young.

The collection is a story of "my" grandpa who sailed the seas and experienced the world with all of his senses. This is his secrets and his future, past and present.  This is grandpa's closet.

For this romantic and artisanal collection, KA WA KEY used their signature treatments: devore for distressed sheer effect, original dreamy watercolor handprinted prints and knitted fabrics. Collection is defined by sheer, floaty and layered constructions and pastel colors.

"Wind blowing in my face, sun rays warming up my body. I hear the call of youth. I can taste it.  I am floating, the waves take me away, back to my memories."

Ka Wa Key Spring/Summer 2020 Collection nyfwm