FOOD FOR THOUGHT | March-April 2018

food for thought pizza

TOP PHOTO: The mushroom pizza at Genuine Pizza, new to Phipps Plaza. It comes with porcini and cremini mushrooms and Taleggio and fontina cheeses. Photo by David Danzig. 

We bring word of biscuits in the ’burbs, a taste of Spain in Inman Park, a new South City Kitchen in Alpharetta and much more.

THIS EDITION of our bimonthly Food for Thought catches you up on projects linked (or unlinked) to chefs Linton Hopkins, Bill Greenwood, Richard Blais and Floridian Michael Schwartz, along with hot chicken news and a Garden & Gun club.

Well done

One choice of many at Maple Street Biscuit Co., open now in Woodstock and coming soon to Alpharetta. Photo: David Danzig

One choice of many at Maple Street Biscuit Co., open now in Woodstock and coming soon to Alpharetta. Photo: David Danzig

Brunch-crazed suburbanites will rejoice at the arrival of Maple Street Biscuit Co. in Woodstock (now open) and Alpharetta (coming soon).

The fast-casual recipe is simple: Make fresh, cathead-size biscuits and fill them with pecan-smoked bacon, fried chicken, sausage gravy, goat cheese (any or all); serve with sides; brew strong, delicious Red Leaf coffee; and serve from early morning through mid-afternoon.

Already a phenomenon in parts of Florida, look for a Maple Street Biscuit on a street near you soon. …

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Star chef Linton Hopkins has finally opened C. Ellet’s Steak House at The Battery Atlanta at SunTrust Park. It’s named for his great-grandfather, Charles Ellet Jr., a Union solider during the Civil War and a bridge-building engineer. As Food for Thought reported last year, C. Ellet’s had been slotted for a May 2017 opening.

The James Beard Award-winning Hopkins and wife Gina previously teamed on Restaurant Eugene, Holeman and Finch, Longleaf and H&F Burger. Their C. Ellet’s  is a 6,500-sq. ft. room that seats up to 200. The dining room feels like it was plucked from New Orleans’ Garden District, with an elegant design that evokes a genteel but informal Southern atmosphere, a spot for an intimate bite or a rousing party. Steaks are the stars here, and Hopkins did his research, sourcing bovines from farms in eight states, and offering a premier seafood program with cold and hot options.

At C. Ellet’s: White Oak Pastures steak tartar with fried capers and bone marrow. Photo: David Danzig

At C. Ellet’s: White Oak Pastures steak tartar with fried capers and bone marrow. Photo: David Danzig

Baseball season opens March 29, so you still have a few non-baseball days — and those out-of-town-game days — to get your steak on. Plus, the Battery is open 365 days a year. …

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After a misfire with the Cockentrice, Krog Street Market has welcomed Bar Mercado, a concept that that fits the Inman Park neighborhood the way a fancy hat fits a matador. The space, inspired by Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel, gets a handsome reboot with a menu of cured meats, cheeses and tapas from multiple regions of Spain. Hipster craft cocktails and Spanish wines keep the casual fiesta going beyond the comida. …

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Florida-based celebrity chef Michael Schwartz — a restaurateur, James Beard award-winner and author — expands his empire to Phipps Plaza with Genuine Pizza, a super-approachable Italian joint with gourmet Neapolitan-style pies and toppings like short ribs and gruyere, meatballs with peppers and onions, slow-roasted pork and fig, and rock shrimp with fresh manchego cheese. With the most expensive item on the menu only  $21, it’s very un-Buckhead, price-wise.

[SEE: 13 IN GEORGIA MAKE SEMIFINALS FOR 2018 JAMES BEARD AWARDS]

Simmering

Look for Hattie B’s Hot Chicken to set up shop soon near Little Five Points. Photo: David Danzig

Look for Hattie B’s Hot Chicken to set up shop soon near Little Five Points. Photo: David Danzig

Opening day appears imminent for the long-awaited Hattie B’s Hot Chicken, the Nashville phenom that teased Atlantans last year with brief, impact-making appearances at summer and fall festivals.

Hattie’s will take over an old laundromat near Little Five Points, serving hot chicken in six spice levels, ranging from “Southern” (no heat) to “shut the cluck up” (burn notice). …

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The legendary Woody’s CheeseSteaks adds a second location near the East Andrews Entertainment district in Buckhead. The chopped steak/onion/Cheez Whiz creations are a 40-plus-year tradition at the original intown location on Monroe Drive. The Buckhead spot will feature an expanded menu, says owner Steven Renner, who took over Woody’s in 2010. …

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Fans of Southern style magazine Garden & Gun likely will enjoy a brick-and-mortar experience due in spring. The Charleston-based operation plans to open Garden & Gun Club at The Battery Atlanta. Despite the “club” in its name, no membership will be required. Garden & Gun will pour cocktails and serve lunch and dinner. …

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Fifth Group Restaurant’s footprint grows with South City Kitchen Avalon in the Alpharetta dining/retail development. The fourth South City Kitchen serves its sophisticated, seasonal, Southern food at breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, and at weekend brunch. Fifth Group also plans to take over the former BrickTop’s space at Peachtree Street and Piedmont Avenue in Buckhead.

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Toast

Bill Greenwood and his wife, Rita, in an undated photo.

Bill Greenwood and his wife, Rita, in an undated photo.

Roswell lost Greenwoods on Green Street and Swallow at the Hollow at year’s end, leaving a comfort-food void in the neighborhood. Greenwoods had served stick-to-the-ribs Southern classics since 1986; Swallow at the Hollow had smoked ’que since 1999. Bill Greenwood, the man behind both spots, decided to retire. …

***

Flip Burger Boutique in Buckhead, originally one of three Flip gourmet burger locations in the city, has shut down its fryers. Only the Howell Mill Road restaurant remains. The buzz about the boutique eateries, the brainchild of “Top Chef” master Richard Blais, had been eroding since Blais left Atlanta to pursue projects elsewhere. …

***

Finally, the last cow has left Cowtippers, the iconic Midtown spot that had served steaks near Piedmont Park for more than 20 years. News of a January closing prompted a community outcry and a stay of execution. That lasted only until mid-February.

::

Food for Thought, Encore Atlanta’s bimonthly dining column, keeps you up to date on openings, closings and what chefs are up to in one of three categories — well done (reasons for praise), simmering (what’s in the works) and toast (what’s closed, etc.). Tips? Please email kathy@encoreatlanta.com.

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Hot For Your Home: 2018's Most Inspirational Interior Trends

The thrilling sequence of fashion weeks has got us planning outfits for months to come, but have you thought about what you’re going to style your home in 2018? If you have a love for fashion or an interest in interiors, here are some of 2018’s most inspirational trends to try at home.

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Understated Industrial

After hitting the headlines a few years ago, the industrial trend is back with a bang in 2018.

This time around, adopt an understated, muted approach. Think stripped back brickwork and rustic beams paired with oversized bulbs with exposed filaments and sleek metal chairs. Keep the palette neutral with shades of white, beige and gray, and add splashes of vibrancy with houseplants.

This trend works for almost any room in the house and you can modify it to suit your individual taste. It’s a great look to work with if you’re planning to create a cool home office, a minimalist boudoir or an effortlessly trendy kitchen.

Color blocking

Color blocking is a trend we often see on the catwalks. This year, take inspiration from spring/summer lookbooks and channel this vibe in your home. Color blocking is a fantastic way to embrace and use color without going overboard, and it can produce incredibly chic looks. Opt for brighter, bolder shades in living rooms and kitchens and muted tones in bedrooms and bathrooms. Gray and yellow work brilliantly in reception rooms while pastels are an ideal choice for the bedroom. Look out for colored accessories to add splashes of intrigue to plain walls and choose shades that complement each other. You don’t have to spend a fortune overhauling an entire room to emanate Instagram images or glossy magazine shots. Browse gift cards online to save you money at home stores and look for affordable versions of popular designer accessories like candle holders, plant pots, and rugs. It’s also worth checking out vintage markets and auction sites. It is possible to create a very stylish look on a budget.

Colored kitchens

If you’re a fan of crisp, clean white cabinets, worktops and walls, look away now! 2018 is the year of the colored kitchen, and we’re not just talking beige or dove gray. This is a time to be audacious. Opt for violet, blue or green or go for a touch of opulence with colored marble tops. If you’re afraid of color or you’re not keen on redesigning the entire kitchen, it is possible to update the look of the room without splashing the cash or taking on a huge amount of work. Adding a bold shade to one wall can create a statement or you could lift muted walls with distinctive accessories. Learning to accessorize is a simple and affordable way of keeping up with the trends and ensuring your home always looks the part.

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Pink

Pink was a big deal on the spring/summer catwalks in 2017, and this year, it’s making waves in the world of interior design. Bolder, brighter pinks were all the rage last year, and this season, it’s the turn of subtle, blush shades. Blush pink works perfectly with gray and white, and it’s an ideal choice for living spaces, bedrooms and modern home offices. Team pretty pink walls with rose gold or bronze accessories and add greenery to complete the look. Keep the flooring light and embrace natural materials, such as cotton and wood. This trend is perfect as we move into slightly warmer climes and the days start to get longer and lighter.

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Modern florals

Florals make the cut every year, but this is such a diverse trend.

One year, we could be talking moody winter florals while the next we’re taking inspiration for our wallpaper from our grandma’s favorite knits.

For 2018, there’s a nod to old school, traditional florals, so don’t rush to cover up paper you assumed was dated just yet. Opt for a statement wall for a trendy living room or embrace a chintz-inspired vibe with printed linen, curtains and cushions in the bedroom.

This year’s palette is a little more adventurous than in years gone by, so look for patterns that feature pops of turquoise, yellow, pink or green.

Bringing the outside in

Many of us are taking more interest in the planet and the natural environment that surrounds our homes, and this is an interest that is reflected in interior trends. Maximize natural light, opt for natural materials and look to combine indoor and outdoor living. Make the most of views out onto gardens or parks, angle furniture towards windows and sliding doors and keep the decor light and fresh. You can channel this vibe in most rooms in your home, but perhaps the best place to bring the outside in is the kitchen, especially if your room backs onto an outdoor area. If you’ve got space, you could create a stunning seating area overlooking the yard using rattan sofas, bamboo rugs, towering plants and cotton-covered cushions. If it’s not quite warm enough for drinks with the doors open yet, you can add a cozy feel with oversized standing lanterns and throws draped over the backs of chairs. This trend is ideally suited to large, spacious homes, but it’s also a brilliant option for smaller spaces. With light walls and flooring, you can really open up the room and make it look a lot larger than it is. Hanging mirrors is another easy way to lighten up a bijou pad.

modern bedroom

There’s a constant buzz surrounding new season fashion trends, but have you thought about the kinds of styles and themes you’re going to embrace in your home in the coming months? Like fashion, interior looks come and go in the blink of an eye, but there’s always a diverse range of trends to choose from, so you’re bound to find something you like. If you’re on the lookout for ways to update and refresh your interiors without breaking the bank or devoting every spare minute to painting and decorating, hopefully, this guide has given you some inspiration.

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BATTLE ZONE

Alvin Ailey

FOR THIS VISIT,  ALVIN AILEY AMERICAN DANCE THEATER LEADER ROBERT BATTLE LOOKS TO THE PAST — 1960, THE 1980S, 2004 — TO ENTERTAIN, PROVOKE AND INFORM THE FUTURE.

Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater performs Feb. 14-18 at the Fox Theatre. Tickets HERE or at 855.285.8499. 

“ALMOST SPIRITUAL.” That’s how Robert Battle describes Atlanta’s passion for Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater.

“The black experience,” says Ailey artistic director Robert Battle, “is not a one-note samba.” Photo: Andrew Eccles

“The black experience,” says Ailey artistic director Robert Battle, “is not a one-note samba.” Photo: Andrew Eccles

“The love and electricity we feel every time we’re there is the kind of excitement and commitment that’s usually reserved for pop culture — like for rock stars,” says Battle, artistic director of the nation’s pre-eminent modern dance company.

This visit the 32-member company — in which no one is a star but everyone dances like one — brings 13 pieces for six performances. You’d need to attend four of the six to see them all. What you can count on is plenty of powerful, athletic dance and Revelations as the finale. The spirit-rousing, visually stunning piece created by founder Alvin Ailey dates to 1960.

Revelations is a light in a dark place,” Battle says from New York. “As we look at this world and our country, Revelations gives us a sense that tomorrow the sun will shine.”

Battle, on the job since 2011, is the third artistic director in Ailey’s 60-year history. He was chosen by his predecessor, Judith Jamison, just as she was chosen by Ailey himself. Battle’s Mass, created in 2004 for the Juilliard School, is new this year to Ailey dancers.

He was inspired to create it after seeing a choral performance of Verdi’s Requiem at Carnegie Hall. “I found myself inspired by the sort of pageantry of a chorus of a hundred people, even how they entered in a somber way and the precise way they organized themselves on the risers, the juxtaposition of it all.

“When they sang,” he says, “the juxtaposition was their voice, like a passport to the world that could travel freely.” The choir leader “was almost like the preacher figure or chosen one born out of the mass. I found myself thinking about it all — the individual, the group or huddled mass, the chosen one freeing himself from the group.”

You never know where you’ll find inspiration, he says.

A scene from the Robert Battle-choreographed “Mass.” Top of page: “Twyla Tharp’s Golden Section.” Photos: Paul Kolnik

A scene from the Robert Battle-choreographed “Mass.” Top of page: “Twyla Tharp’s Golden Section.” Photos: Paul Kolnik

Battle’s choreography often features sharp, ritualistic movements and intricate patterns. He’s comfortable endorsing one phrase used to describe his style: rapid-fire movement. “My last name is Battle, and I think that says it all.”

As always, Ailey audiences can expect some social consciousness in the program. A highlight is likely to be Shelter, created in 1988 by Jawole Willa Jo Zollar, founder and artistic director of Urban Bush Women, the Brooklyn- dance troupe whose works often illuminate the disenfranchised.

Ailey dancers first performed the 22-minute Shelter, described as a hard-hitting interpretation on homelessness, 25 years ago. This is its first revival in 15 years.

Jawole Willa Jo Zollar’s “Shelter.” Photo: Paul Kolnik

Jawole Willa Jo Zollar’s “Shelter.” Photo: Paul Kolnik

One day in New York, Zollar says, she found herself stepping over a homeless person. “When it became normal and didn’t have any impact —when I stopped seeing it — that is when I thought we were losing portions of our humanity.”

Since the piece premiered, New York’s homeless population has tripled to 63,000, according to a recent NBC News estimate. Georgia has about 14,000 homeless people.

Battle sees Shelter’s relevance expanding. “I think we’re having to think about shelter and protection in larger ways. There’s a real fear out there of needing shelter from the very laws that are supposed to protect you.”

At least two other pieces in the lineup date to the 1980s, as well:

TWYLA THARP’S THE GOLDEN SECTION (1983). This 16-minute piece, set to a New Wave score by David Byrne, was the finale to Tharp’s The Catherine Wheel, an acclaimed 1981 project. Two years later, it became a stand-alone piece “celebrated for its expression of blissful joy.” In 2006, The New Yorker described Ailey’s re-staging as “daring, driving choreography with breathtaking leaps.”

STACK-UP  by Talley Beatty (1982). Beatty’s piece examines “an urban landscape and all the things that can happen within that context,” says Battle. More plot-driven than most Ailey pieces, it’s a colorful, energetic number of physical pyrotechnics done to a disco vibe from the Fearless Four, Grover Washington Jr. and Earth, Wind & Fire.

An Ailey performance promises a wide range of themes, moods and emotions. “The black experience,” Battle says, “is not a one-note samba.”

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Erik Madigan Heck: "Old Future" Opening at Jackson Fine Art

Jackson Fine Art is thrilled to officially announce their first Atlanta exhibition of work by acclaimed fashion photographer Erik Madigan Heck, one of the most innovative and exciting young artists in contemporary photography. Heck's painterly large scale photographs are at once classic and futuristic, with influences ranging from Gustav Klimt and Edgar Degas to the high contrast color and visionary design of Pop Art or Michel Gondry.

This intersection of past and present lends both Heck's first monograph and our exhibition their title – Old Future.  As Susan Bright writes in her contribution to the book, published by Abrams in 2017, "Heck flies into the future with his back turned – he faces history, allowing it to turn back on itself, reassigning and regrouping it with each new project." Vulture named Old Future one of the top 10 photography books of 2017. 


Heck's otherworldy imagery is mostly created in-camera, with only minor modifications done in post-production, and all of his photographs are naturally lit. 

In the past 12 months, Erik Madigan Heck has been exhibited in London, New York, and Minneapolis, with exhibitions forthcoming in Switzerland, Toronto, and Dubai. He is a regular contributor to The New York Times MagazineVanity FairTIMEThe New Yorker, and Harper's Bazaar UK. In 2013 he became one of the youngest photographers to receive the prestigious ICP Infinity Award, and in 2015 was awarded with the Art Directors Club’s Gold Medal and the AI-IP American Photography award for his Old Masters Portfolio, published by The New York Times Magazine. He lives and works in Connecticut and New York City. 

Join Jackson Fine Art on Friday, January 26 for an opening reception to Future Old from 6-8PM. Jackson Fine Art is located at 3115 East Shadowlawn Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30305. For more information about Jackson Fine Art and their artists, visit jacksonfineart.com

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ATLANTA FOUNDATION FOR PUBLIC SPACES CELEBRATES THE 5th ANNUAL CALLANWOLDE ARTS FESTIVAL

Join the Atlanta Foundation for Public Spaces (AFFPS) on Saturday, January 20 and Sunday, January 21, 2018, as they celebrate the fifth annual Callanwolde Arts Festival. The award-winning, two-day indoor festival is located in one of Atlanta’s most distinctive historic properties, the 27,000-square foot Callanwolde Mansion in Druid Hills, and features approximately 86 painters, photographers, sculptors, metalwork, glass artists, jewelers and more.  The festival, which is open to all ages, will also offer artist demonstrations, live acoustic music, food trucks with healthy alternatives, and live music and dance performances. Admission is $5 at the door.

Art lovers are also invited to take advantage of the ticketed V.I.P. Preview Sales Party on Friday, January 19th from 6 to 9 p.m.  Upon arrival, guests will be greeted with a glass of wine to sip on as they stroll throughout the historic home and will be the first to view and shop the artwork showcased at this year’s festival.  Guests are also invited to enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres while they mix and mingle with the artists and enjoy live acoustic music.  Admission to the V.I.P. Preview Sales Party is $20 and is open to all ages. Tickets can be purchased at the door.  For more information visit http://callanwoldeartsfestival.com.   

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Operation Colombia for your taste buds at The Consulate Atlanta

The Consulate Atlanta travels the globe every ninety days to create authentic, international dishes to entice and seduce the adventurer's palate. Their stop this time is Colombia, following a very successful tour through Ethiopia, which was preceded by Cuba, Guam, Brazil, Russia and Denmark. The mid-century styled restaurant offers a staple menu as well, that includes grilled octopus in a sweet mango chili sauce, Korean Pulled Duck Confit and Pan Seared scallops, just to name a few.

Executive Chef Lin has once again, curated a menu of delicious traditional dishes, some which feature a modern, re-constructed twist which has become a signature trademark approach for The Consulate Atlanta. The Colombian menu, with its Ajiaco soup, Arroz con Pollo and Posta Negra does not disappoint. The menu offers a feast for your taste buds that pair excellently with their Colombian inspired specialty crafted cocktails.

The globe was spun and a new destination was chosen on January 5th - secure your visas because in three months, The Consulate Atlanta will be jet-setting to India! BUT for now, make sure and visit them for a mouthwatering taste of Colombia.

Here is a glance at their MENU: 

—  VISA MENU —

 — COLOMBIAN SALAD
Ensalada de Frijol y Maiz  (Bean & Corn Salad)   7
black beans, kidney beans, garbanzo beans, white beans, chick peas, fresh cilantro, red and green pepper,  scallions, light vinaigrette

 —  FEATURED COLOMBIAN DISHES

Sweet Plantains   7       mojo mint garlic sauce

Chef Lin’s Empanadas           
 Teriyaki ground Beef   (2)      12        
onion, red pepper, sesame seeds, scallions        
V - Teriyaki Trio Mushroom   (2)     10      
 (white button mushrooms,  Oyster mushrooms, Bunapi mushrooms)        
Empanada Duo   11
1 beef, 1 mushroom

ATL  Arepa    10          
Avocado, Tomato, Artisan Lettuce,  Quesito Colombiano

BLT Arepa    12
Hickory Smoked Thickcut Bacon, artisan Lettuce, Tomato, Quesito Colombiano

Ajiaco   14    ( Chicken and Potato Soup )
pulled chicken breast, red and purple potatoes, corn, guascas, avacado, capers.

Arroz Con Pollo   22
beer marinated, Springer Farms chicken quarter, jasmine rice, carrots, red and green peppers, corn, onions, cilantro, ginger.

Posta Negra    23
14 hour marinade Eyeround Beef, Worchestershire Coca Cola Sauce   

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT | Jan-Feb 2018

The barbecue is bountiful at 4 Rivers Smokehouse near Mercedes-Benz Stadium downtown. Photo: David Danzig

The barbecue is bountiful at 4 Rivers Smokehouse near Mercedes-Benz Stadium downtown. Photo: David Danzig

ATLANTA REMAINS BULLISH ON ITALIAN; FORSYTH COUNTY’S HALCYON ADDS 4 MORE EATERIES; AND FORD FRY TRADES TATTOOS FOR TEX-MEX.

WITH THIS COLUMN, we salute brilliant brisket and new brews news, take a look at former strip-club/dive-bar the Clermont Lounge and its plans to go upscale (!!!), and report the brick-and-mortar demise of corn dogs and boozy milkshakes in Avondale Estates. Grab a snack, and read on.

Well done

The banana pudding at 4 Rivers comes with a graham-cracker crust, fresh banana slices and Heath Bar crumbles. Photo: David Danzig

The banana pudding at 4 Rivers comes with a graham-cracker crust, fresh banana slices and Heath Bar crumbles. Photo: David Danzig

That waft of smoldering hickory you smell near downtown’s Mercedes-Benz Stadium comes from 4 RIVERS SMOKEHOUSE, a Florida export from pit master JOHN RIVERS. Rivers retired as president of a multibillion-dollar health-care company to perfect his love of Texas-style brisket.

With 13 locations now running in Florida, Atlanta now gets its own version, in a refurbished 1915 firehouse on the West Side. The smoker produces brisket, chicken, St. Louis ribs, burnt ends and even brontosaurus-size beef ribs.

The sides — sweet potato casserole, fried okra, baked cheese grits and Brunswick stew — are bona-fide barbecue stuff. Sandwiches like the Texas Destroyer (made with brisket), barbecue brisket tacos and a smokehouse Cuban sandwich show that 4 Rivers can crank out the meats and put them together in amazing ways. For dessert: banana pudding made with Nilla wafers.

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Suburbanites continue to demand restaurant excellence and get it. The latest example: FROM THE EARTH BREWING CO., a smart new brewpub in Roswell. It pairs house-brewed craft beers with a menu of sophisticated yet approachable comfort food and pulls it all together in a cozy but hip environment.

You’ll probably want to start with a flight of house drafts from brewmaster JAMIE PARKER. Golden ale, hefeweizen, IPA and double IPA, imperial stout and Belgian tripel are among his creations. The brews also are available to-go.

Earth Brewing Company

 

Take a flight at From the Earth Brewing Co. on Holcomb Bridge Road in Roswell. Photo: David Danzig

From the Earth’s one-page menu changes often but generally includes a house-made pretzel, crispy Brussels sprouts, a double-stack cheeseburger, barbecue brisket tacos, fried chicken, seared salmon and an iron-skillet pork chop. All are simple plates served beautifully with locally sourced ingredients. Owner TIM STEPHENS has an impressive intown restaurant pedigree and is now on his own on Holcomb Bridge Road.

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At Donetto, the Fritelle Donetto is made with fresh Pecorina Romana and cured prosciutto. Photo: David Danzig

At Donetto, the Fritelle Donetto is made with fresh Pecorina Romana and cured prosciutto. Photo: David Danzig

A bull named DONETTO has charged into West Midtown. The gorgeous Italian restaurant is named for the heaviest Italian Chianina bull ever weighed (3,800 pounds).

Chef MICHAEL PEREZ makes fresh melt-in-your-mouth pasta like tagliatelle with clams, fusilli with smoked fish, or ripiena stuffed with quail.

A 45-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye, a half-smoked chicken and octopus plated with white beans pair nicely with inventive cocktails. The “Netspritz and Chill” is made with house limonata, rosemary, aperol, prosecco and lemon; the “Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder” is made with 229 gin, honey and absinthe.

Donetto, on Brady Avenue, holds its own nicely in a neighborhood chock-full of heavy-hitters, award winners and a city brimming with standout Italian cuisine.

Simmering

Nobu Matsuhisa

Nobu Matsuhisa

Big names keep bubbling onto Atlanta’s culinary stage.

Now comes international Japanese superstar NOBU MATSUSHISA, who’s building on the rubble of what was the Belk store at Phipps Plaza.

The project includes a Nobu Hotel and a restaurant called NOBU ATLANTA RESTAURANT.

Look also for MICHAEL’S GENUINE FOOD & DRINK by well-known Miami-based chef MICHAEL SCHWARTZ.

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A new steakhouse named ARNETTE’S CHOP SHOP joins Apple Valley Brookhaven, a 70,000-sq. ft. mixed-use complex a bit farther north on Peachtree Road. Arnette’s comes from MICHEL ARNETTE, who runs HAVEN RESTAURANT AND BAR (New American), VALENZA (Southern Italian) and VERO PIZZERIA, all on Dresden Drive.  Look for an opening by Valentine’s Day.

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Four more eateries have signed on to HALCYON, the 135-acre mixed-use development in Forsyth County: MidiCi NEAPOLITAN PIZZACOCINA & TAQUERIAPITA MEDITERRANEAN STREET FOOD and poke restaurant SWEET TUNA, as reported by the Atlanta Business Chronicle. They join GU’S DUMPLINGSTACAYOBUTCHER & BREW and CO-OP COMMUNITY KITCHEN & TABLE. Expect openings throughout 2018.

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Restaurant mogul FORD FRY has commandeered an old tattoo parlor at Piedmont and Cheshire Bridge roads, and is working on a new Tex-Mex concept (not an El Felix or Superica). Fry says it will be a “super-casual joint with wood-roasted ‘chicken al carbon’ at its core.” Plan on breakfast tacos, a Texas staple, to be prominent as well. The 3,500-sq. ft. space should open in the summer.

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The Hotel Clermont and Tiny Lou’s team (from left): Alan Rae, chef Jeb Aldrich and Nick Hassiotis. Photo: Heidi Geldhauser

The Hotel Clermont and Tiny Lou’s team (from left): Alan Rae, chef Jeb Aldrich and Nick Hassiotis. Photo: Heidi Geldhauser

And finally, if only the walls could talk.

The CLERMONT LOUNGE, one of Atlanta’s more infamous landmarks, is being reborn. The 1920s building, longtime home of a strip club/dive bar, will re-emerge in the spring as HOTEL CLERMONT, a boutique hotel with an all-new restaurant called TINY LOU’S.

It’s named for a 1950s stripper who pranced in the Gypsy Room, as it was called then. Legend has it that  Lou was notorious as “the girl who refused to dance with Hitler.”

The in-house restaurant will be an American-French brasserie led by executive chef JEB ALDRICH, who plans a French-American menu with Southern accents.

 

Toast

gordon biersch

It survived the Great Recession, but Buckhead’s BrickTop’sdid not survive 2017. The steak-seafood-sandwich spot planned to shutter on New Year’s Eve. It opened in late 2007 in the Terminus 100 development on Peachtree Road, along with several other high-profile pre-recession openings, and outlasted most of them. It’s moving to Birmingham. Other BrickTop’s remain in North Carolina, Florida, Tennessee and Missouri. … Midtown’s GORDEN BIERSCH said danke shoen and auf Wiedersehen and closed in mid-November. The 18-year-old restaurant opened before development in the neighborhood spiked. The Buckhead location is still serving. … The deep-fried and delightfully kitschy PALOOKAVILLE FINE FOODS has battered its last corn dog and poured its last boozy milkshake in Avondale Estates. Happily, the food truck edition of the carnival food emporium lives on.

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Food for Thought, Encore Atlanta’s bimonthly dining column, keeps you up to date on openings, closings and what chefs are up to in one of three categories — well done (reasons for praise), simmering (what’s in the works) and toast (what’s closed, etc.). Email kathy@encoreatlanta.com.

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