“I wanted a general mood of sensitivity, something romantic. These are times that everybody is dressed in hoods—urban apocalyptic, like Mad Max—but for me it was important to show something beautiful, inspiring maybe, without being pretentious.” - Jonny Johansson Acne Studios
In a genius and interactive move, Acne Studios flipped the switch (or entrance, should I say) with their Spring 2018 menswear show. Guests and attendees came into the venue through backstage and were ushered to the front of the house only to find themselves walking the runway and the models seated. This was absolutely brilliant!
There were camouflaged wrapped dresses, one-shouldered bandaged knit gowns, and the like. A lurex jumper was described by a publicist, humorously, as "Christmastime." Both genders had t-shirts and tops printed with "NEW YORK IS MY HOME," ditto for Los Angeles.-Vogue
Faith Connexion Spring 2018 Menswear - see collection.
For Heron Preston’s second collection, the designer developed pieces with subversive humor. Taking the second step into building his unique point-of-view, Preston dipped into his personal history to create a graphic heavy, referential collection inspired by kitsch, from artworks like Jeff Koons’ ceramic sculptures to the designer’s own memories of paintings in display homes in the Northern California suburbs. This season also marks the debut of Heron Preston womenswear, presented alongside the men’s collection.
“Show House” is named for pristine model homes in suburban subdivisions, the staged living spaces with eerie perfection, teeming with non-life, designed to imagine a mini-utopian future. Memories of walking through a show house when his parents moved to the suburbs of San Francisco inspired the graphics in this collection, like an image of a bowl of fruit (wittily branded with the word “fruit” on the back) as well as the setting for the lookbook, shot outside Milan in a vacant space meant to evoke the empty lots of a subdivision-in-progress.
Preston’s research also led him to the origins of his work as a designer, modeling one piece after a display tee used for years at Jonathan Embroidery Plus on 38th Street in Manhattan, meant to show the various screen printing techniques the store offered. Preston borrowed graphics from the display shirt, from an exploding baseball to a rattlesnake, a playful homage to nonsense-as-aesthetic.
The Heron Preston Spring/Summer 2018 collection also includes new painting graphics that feature the Heron bird, borrowed from John James Audubon’s depictions, as well as the brand’s hallmark “Style” embroidery, printed in Russian. Utility wear remains a major influence for the brand, with cargo and workwear elements present in both the men’s and women’s collection.
For womenswear, Preston focused on leather elements and cropped silhouettes balanced with oversize tees and hoodies, along with a new rollout of small leather accessories.