Fashionado is a fashion and lifestyle brand where readers indulge in a myriad of trending topics from the world of design, art and culinary. Via the FashionadoTV digital platform, Fashionado founder, E. Vincent Martinez, hosts interviews with celebrities, fashion designers, artists and industry professionals.
Bartschland brought the fire to NYFW’s RUNWAY 7 at Sony Hall when the first model to walk for the highly anticipated new collection from nightlife impresario and fashion icon, Susanne Bartsch, shot flames from their shoes.
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This season saw Christian Louboutin's second collaboration with Michael Halpern’s eponymous brand; the designer’s usual high glamour world taking a bigger, more daring approach for the season, turning traditional eveningwear on its head.
The rock and roll edge of last season was given an even grittier dress code for AW18.
Inspired by seasoned socialite and sartorial rule breaker Nan Kemper, the collection showcased a burst of color wrapped around dazzling super flares, glittering miniskirts paired with embellished t-shirts and a highly crafted shoulder of a jacket irreverently morphed into a luxurious mini dress.
Drawing from the ever-changing landscape of the world’s most famous concrete jungle, exploding peonies and animal prints appeared as recurring themes, elevated to a three-dimensional quality through embellishment and metallic fabric treatments.
The dazzling interpretation of an inappropriate glamour - wearing an evening look at noon, dressing against the dress codes, and the irresistible pleasure of being out of place - was furthered by the addition of customized Christian Louboutin styles inspired by Miss Daisy from the Spring Summer 2018 collection.
Matching the fabrics of the most exceptional outfits, thigh high boots come in a vibrant palette of colors and patterns. The playful mules were a highlight with contrasting color block fragments and multi-colored firework sequins. Self assured ankle boots adorned in Halpern's AW18 zebra flip motif further embodies the freedom from fashion etiquette. All three styles are showcased in a psychedelic fil coupé that comes in both pink and yellow. All sit atop Christian LouboutIn's sculptural SS18 Gueridon heel, reflecting Michael Halpern's creative vision of a silhouette freeze-framing the fleeting moments of ease embodied in the movement of eveningwear.
See entire Halpern F/W 2018 collection HERE.
Fury, fervor, effervescence! For his first couture fashion show in Paris, Rani Zakhem celebrates life and joy in incandescent metaphors. Fire is the essential element of this sumptuous yet relaxed collection, dedicated to a volcanic woman.
As devouring as ethereal, the sacred element comes in pyrotechnic explosions and cascades of gold, drawn by embroideries of arachnoid crystals of lava on the black of a sheath whose draped top splits into a deep "V” neckline. Some creations seem to be sculpted in the light, like the pearl-beige silk dress, where red, orange and gold gems glow with a myriad of sequins that bring precious reflections back to the surface. Here the image of the volcano is spun to the neck, columned and entirely gilded, a recurring element of the collection and keystone of an architecture that favors ease, movement and, one would be tempted to add, the dancing flames that seem to devour the fabric barely touch the floor.
Reminiscent of a party in Vienna where the designer returned bedazzled, Klimt's Kiss, itself cast in a gold powder dust of stars, infuses into the collection a resolutely modernist visual vocabulary, translated into sequins of geometric forms. Geometry that also brings us into the disco spirit of the 1970s with many references to Halston, especially in a loose, single- shouldered fluid dress with a golden Mao collar, in a fanned out degradé rainbow, gold to red through yellow and bright orange. Gold, again, subtle and powdery, sculpts a feuille d'or chiffon dress, knotted in a wrap around bustier dropping into a deep backline, a tribute to Mireille Darc, elegantly quoting Guy Laroche.
Clearly, the theme of fire, sometimes extinguished leaving precious streaks of diamonds on silky nights; sometimes fluid, sizzling cascades of molten metal on a short dress with dripping panels, and sometimes gently iridescent with warm colors, is only a pretext chosen by Rani Zakhem to salute the masters who nourished his vocation.
A scarfed collared, vertiginously split yellow chiffon, plissé soleil dress with mouton sleeves, is a joyful smile addressed to Jean-Louis Scherrer. Another, short black silk satin, real Moujik tunic adorned at the bottom with pleated yellow faille and embellished with a large bow of the same fabric is a nod to Yves Saint Laurent. A third, composed of a densely embroidered golden top with narrow three-quarter sleeves, and a long black pleated skirt is a reverence to Balmain. The heart skips a beat when the liquid gold drape of a silk jersey habillé evening sheath appears, ending with a large bow of black silk satin on the shoulder, a tribute of the designer to Madame Grès.
A black silk satin kaftan, embroidered on the edges with gold sequins and flame patterns at the bottom, recalls Rani Zakhem's native orient and plays on the bond between his multiple cultures.
A delicate apotheosis of this fashion show, shaped in flowing lava and blazing fires, is the wedding dress, long and tight with its delicate whitish lace and precious simplicity , emphasizes the minimalist bias of a collection with budding emotions.
"Just when the world went heavy, Rei Kawakubo lightened up. Unexpected, counterintuitive? What else would we expect of her? Just when the audiences at her exhibition line up to admire the great intellectual monuments of her storied career, she ups and does something young that makes everyone laugh." Vogue
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2018 Menswear - See collection.
Step aside NYFW, Saint Laurent is showing in Los Angeles. Hedi Slimane presented his men and womenswear collection at the famed Palladium in LA. 70s & 80s glam-rock, disco, Michael Jackson, David Bowie, a little Courtney Love, vampires, AHS Hotel, coke and herion is what I get from this show. Slime gave us beautiful furs - for him too- rich velvets, glitzy lames, lots of pattern and rock & roll styling and of course, Saint Laurent's signature tux. Hamish Bowles recapped the collection and the celebrity scene best, here.
Rockabilly meets Disco meets New Wave in
Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent
menswear collection for Spring 2014. While there are some choice pieces that I wouldn't mind having in my closet, like the silver metallic bomber jacket, the red blazer with black piping, (some of) the skinny trousers and a number of the badass shoes, the truth is I was distracted by how unattractive the models were. Seriously. Slimane may have just reinvented heroin chic which was so popular in the 90s with his own version we can refer to as heroin glam. The emaciated male models do not flatter the clothes. They do not sell the clothes [which would make us want them]... OR not. Want. Them. View collection:
"At first I was afraid, I was petrified."
Am I referring to Disco Diva Gloria Gaynor's anthem
I Will Survive
OR to
Project Runway All Stars'
Disco Challenge? If you guessed "both" you are correct! Some of the designers were doing the hustle when they should've been making it work. Project Runway sponsor Nine West challenged the designers to create a disco inspired look based on shoes that they provided. There were good designs and there were tragedies.
Everything about Casanova's dress worked: the color choice, the metallic shoe and hair style. He gave us sexy and chic; modern with a hint of retro.
Hot Stuff.
I was surprised that Althea was not in the bottom. That top looked like sewn together rags. Maybe her look was an interpretation of the morning after partying at Studio 54 all night?
Bad Girls.
A simple dress by Anthony. Too simple for my liking. Even though there's complexity to the pattern / construction of the dress, overall, the style, color and wow factor are lacking. Its a boring frock. She would have not been let into the disco, sorry.
Turn the Beat Around.
Our little lamb Andrae. This is better than last week's but Andrae is still somewhere, in a parallel universe where weirdness reigns.
Wishing on a Star.
I haven't figured out if I don't like this dress because I don't care for Ivy or because I just don't like the dress.
There But for the Grace of God.
I definitely see the '70s influence in Joshua's sleeveless pant suit. It's well done and I love the color. The one disappointment I feel comes from how plain it is. If there was ever a moment to embrace the bezdazzle, glitz & glam that you're known for, the disco challenge was it!
Don't Leave Me this Way.
Michael Kors made a comment about being a good tailor doesn't mean you're a good designer. Kayne did well but this outfit feels a little costumey with the patterned pant. I totally love the sequined top and the orange shoes.
Funky Town.
The sequined jacket is my favorite single piece out of the challenge. Overall, Laura's look is fantastic. What doesn't work is the color of the jumper with the nature of the challenge. It needed to pop.
More, More, More.
Maybe one day Suede will graduate from fashion school. Maybe one day Suede will stop talking in the third person. Or if we're lucky, next week will be his last so that we won't have to suffer with the other two maybe's anymore!
Le Freak
Wendy Pepper was old enough (like me) to live through the fabulous disco era. (Unlike me) she probably stayed home on the weekend doing whatever frumpy kids do. I just don't get this look. Wendy, this could have been great! What possessed her to make hideous bell-bottoms and to choose the pattern fabrics? There is so much bad going on here. Did she think the challenge was to create a "disco is dead" look because this is killing me. The party's over for Wendy.
Last Dance.
Now this is much better on the eyes. Emilio's gorgeous, flowy halter dress was beautiful on the runway. The fuchsia waistband and matching straps I am not crazy about. The dress made a statement, however and the color was spectacular.
I Love the Nightlife.
Fashionado is a fashion & lifestyle brand where readers indulge in a myriad of trending topics from the world of fashion, design, art and culinary. Via the FashionadoTV digital platform, Fashionado founder, E. Vincent Martinez, hosts interviews with celebrities, fashion designers, artists and industry professionals.
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