The Medusa is shedding its skin — again.

As fashion insiders brace for the next major creative shake-up, Pieter Mulier, the quiet force behind Alaïa’s modern resurgence, has emerged as the front-runner to take over Versace. The timing isn’t accidental. It arrives just weeks after Prada Group’s €1.25 billion acquisition of the house, officially pulling Versace out of American corporate ownership and back into Italian hands — where power, taste, and long memory matter.

This isn’t just another designer shuffle. It’s a strategic reset.

Prada Didn’t Buy Versace to Play It Safe

Let’s be clear: Prada Group didn’t spend €1.25 billion to maintain the status quo.

Versace has spent the last decade oscillating between heritage and hype, trying to balance its rock-star DNA with the demands of a global luxury machine. Under Capri Holdings, the brand grew louder, shinier, and broader — but not necessarily sharper.

Prada’s acquisition signals something else entirely: control, coherence, and long-term cultural relevance. And that requires a different kind of designer.

Why Mulier Makes Sense — Even If He’s the Unexpected Choice

On paper, Pieter Mulier may seem like an unconventional fit for Versace. Alaïa is precision. Versace is provocation. But that contrast is exactly the point.

Mulier has proven he can scale without diluting — doubling Alaïa’s business since 2021 while preserving its architectural rigor and intellectual edge. In an industry bloated with logo-first thinking, that kind of discipline is rare.

And Prada knows it.

The group isn’t looking for a nostalgia merchant or a TikTok hitmaker. They want someone who understands structure, longevity, and how to turn taste into power.

The Raf Simons Connection Isn’t Coincidental

This move also reads like a reunion.

Mulier spent years as Raf Simons’ right hand, absorbing a design language rooted in tension, subversion, and clarity. With Simons now installed as Co-Creative Director at Prada, Mulier’s potential arrival at Versace feels less like a hire and more like strategic alignment.

It’s about building a design ecosystem — one where ideas travel across houses without losing their edge.

Dario Vitale’s Sudden Exit Set the Stage

Mulier’s rumored appointment follows the abrupt departure of Dario Vitale, who exited Versace on December 12 after just one well-received season. The move caught the industry off guard — but in hindsight, it reads like a clearing of the runway.

Prada Group isn’t interested in baby steps. They’re moving fast, and they’re thinking several seasons ahead.

What Happens When Discipline Meets Decadence?

Versace is known for excess — sex, glamour, attitude. Mulier is known for restraint. The question isn’t whether he can “do Versace.” It’s whether Versace is ready to evolve.

Insiders suggest the house will skip its traditional January runway show, signaling a deliberate pause — and a reset. If Mulier takes the helm, expect less noise and more intention. Less costume, more control. The rock-and-roll spirit doesn’t disappear — it sharpens.

The Bigger Picture

Fashion doesn’t need another loud Versace moment. It needs a dangerous one.

Prada Group’s potential choice of Mulier suggests they’re betting on intelligence over immediacy, and architecture over theatrics. If confirmed, this could be the most consequential Versace appointment since Gianni himself — not because it repeats the past, but because it refuses to.

An official announcement is expected in early 2026. Until then, the message is already clear: Versace’s next era won’t be about screaming for attention.

It will be about commanding it.

FASHIONADO