Alyx Spring 2020 Men's and Women's Collection

Matthew Williams of 1017 Alyx 9SM (his brand’s full name) didn’t seem to attach much meaning to his venue—a stunning, modernized bank building—yet two words projected loud and clear: big and business. This is what Alyx is fast becoming and what the combined men’s and women’s collections encapsulated with their assertive silhouettes and high-fashion positioning.

As the penultimate show of a strong week, Alyx was something to behold, arousing the glory days of Thierry Mugler in the 1980s while attracting the next-generation crowd that has brought incontrovertible energy back to Paris. For now, at least, Williams is committing to a more formal form of urban than his peers. For him, tailoring is not just an outward statement, but an inward reflection of mastery. “Tailoring is a really difficult thing to do as a young brand,” he said. “Some of the construction we’re attempting to do is trying to find our own language. I think it’s a nice challenge to define what that is for us.”

Arguably, his challenge is how to achieve that difference without appearing over-designed. From past visits with him, before he switched to a show format, he revealed his process as methodical, almost obsessional for the way he will privilege one detail over another. Chances are, he vetoed at least a dozen chains before landing on the one that repeats as a parabolic flourish on several of these looks. Other details—elongating panels, zippered knees, hammered hardware, sculpted heels—were fine-tuned in order to be fully integrated, not gratuitous. Elsewhere, outdoorsy pieces that harked back to earlier collections blended in while the draped dresses towards the end remained slightly unresolved.

But that’s just surface stuff; anyone who read the accompanying notes would have learned about the metal hardware sourced from a sustainable factory, the near-waterless leather-dyeing process, the three-dimensional printed seams and myriad more examples of innovation adding functional and psychological value to the clothes. Or, as stated in this succinct yet thorough document, “We engage with systems, scales, and soul.”

Williams, for his part, also suggested the designs gain dimension from those wearing them. “Our casting is a real mixture of models and friends and family—those people’s energy really brings out the clothes.” See Model 54, aka his wife Jennifer, who wore a croc-embossed jacket (the treatment of the season) and a corresponding translucent skirt. Enough of the guests knew her that cheers echoed through the space as though she were an international celebrity. It was a telling moment. Alyx, now acting all grown up, remains as independent and in-the-know as always.

Source: VOGUE RUNWAY

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MARIA ARISTIDOU COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2019

You don’t always know what ‘s hidden behind a closed door and even when you think you do, you always wonder if you are right. A closed door is, more often than not, a mystery to all of us. We are humans and curiosity is, whether we like it or not, a human imperfection. And when that door has an arch and a keystone, intertwining to form a coherent symplexis, it becomes a mystical and wondrous gate, behind which imagination can run wild! So, open it. If you dare.

Maria Aristidou’s Spring/Summer 2019 knit couture collection was quite the challenge. Inspiration for the pattern came from a single vintage arched door found during a walk inside the old city walls of Nicosia. The simplicity of the door’s facade, together with the complexity of the engineering behind it, gave rise to a series of design trials that lead to this fine timeless pattern for the fabrics of SS 2019 collection. Hand embroidery embellishments on a colorful palette of luxurious knit fabrics made by the designer, capture the beauty and the essence of a woman. Unexpected cuts on timeless classic designs with modern details are the signature of the designer's Spring/Summer 2019 "Symplexis" collection.

In 2015 Maria Aristidou introduced her first A/W 2015 Limited Knit Scarf Collection, a beginning of a new concept in her designs. The magic of knitwear inspired her to first explore and then create, using luxurious threads and elaborate techniques, various knit patterns. The craftsmanship of detailed hand embroideries adds to the uniqueness of Maria Aristidou's fabric collections for the couture evening and accessories.

The process of fabric production for each collection starts from the very beginning. Yarns such as wool, viscose, lurex, cotton, silk and velvet (depending on the season the designer works on) are ordered from Paris and Italy. Then, a series of patterns, first designed on paper, are passed on to the computer knit programmer to be then processed by the programs set for the knitting machines. What follows is a series of testings to establish which yarn will be used on which machine and for which pattern, how thick or thin the fabric will be, color sampling combinations, hand-embroidery design testing, quality and durability checks etc. The only fabric that is actually bought, and not produced by the designer, is the lining needed for each garment.

Once the desired patterns are developed, and the fabric samples are finalized and tested, the fabric production takes place. That is, cutting and sewing (with finishings done with knit trimming on each piece of the garment) along with hand embroidery. All production takes place in Cyprus.

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Giambattista Valli Spring 2018 Couture

Giambattista Valli Spring 2018 Couture

“A lot of people in fashion right now are a little bit scared of beauty. There’s a lot of research into intellectual beauty, alternative beauty, a more edgy beauty, to break the rules. But I’m the opposite. I love the idea of something harmonious, sensual, romantic.”

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli Spring 2018 Couture. 

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2018 Menswear

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"Just when the world went heavy, Rei Kawakubo lightened up. Unexpected, counterintuitive? What else would we expect of her? Just when the audiences at her exhibition line up to admire the great intellectual monuments of her storied career, she ups and does something young that makes everyone laugh." Vogue

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2018 Menswear - See collection.

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Gayla Rogers Collection at Paris Fashion Week Ready-To-Wear 2017

Gayla Rogers is an Atlanta-based fashion designer who recently presented the Gayla Rogers Collection in Paris during Paris Fashion Week at the famous Grand Ballroom Versailles at Shangri-La Eiffel Tower. Gayla Rogers delivered a collection of gowns, coats, jumpers and hoodies in luxurious textiles. She kept the collection fresh through rich color and bold patterns. And while the hoodies seemed a little forced and out of place, she made up for it with her use of dramatic ruffles and voluminous skirts. 

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MODELED IN HER OWN SHOW

Fashion month can be such a blur, but Vivienne Westwood's show was full of surprises. Models wore trash in their hair such as, wrappers, to-go cups, soda cans, etc. A male model carried a puppy in one hand, but overall Vivienne Westwood herself was the attention-grabber. The designer made two surprise runway appearances as a model and received a round of applause the moment she emerged. 

Let's not forget about the clothes. Although there was not a consistent theme, each look was showcasing and over the top which made the show more interesting. These looks included a hat with extended spikes; a quilted metallic purple coat; and a shall we say rather large penis drawing on a pair of skintight overalls on a man. For more details and pictures from the show, check out fashionista.com.

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Chanel Spring 2017 Couture

Chanel Spring 2017 Couture

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