Off-White Spring 2020 Menswear

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The opening look and most of the closing, women’s included, at this Off-White show were made in collaboration with the New York artist Futura—aka Lenny McGurr. His vivid spray strokes and sleekly alien Pointman figure were incorporated as print or jacquard into suiting, soft trenches, cycling vests, denim, a blanket, and evening dresses. As Virgil Abloh sketched it in his long sentences backstage: “In his lifetime, and in the culture that we come from, which is a segment of hip-hop and graffiti, [his work] started out being seen as a form of vandalism, not art. . . . But as well as painting on the side of subway trains, he was part of the scene and showed with Basquiat and Keith Haring. . . . . He was on what was once thought of as the fringe. . . . but now, through time, we can see that the beauty of Basquiat is also the beauty of Lenny, Futura.”

That transition from the counterculture—the fringe—to become both the subject of establishment acclaim and an agent of change within the establishment mirrors Abloh’s own path: In the 10 years since he was photographed by Tommy Ton with Kanye West and crew outside Comme des Garçons, Abloh has completed the full loop. But reflecting on the longer span of Futura’s journey—combined with his own recent project curating his past body of work for the “Figures of Speech” exhibition in Chicago—has made Abloh consider a bigger picture. “When I make things, I look at it on a scale of 30 years. What gives the esteem and the energy . . . I know the work has to mean something now, but I’m also thinking about what it means when you zoom out.”

There was certainly a sense of space in time in some of this collection. Its span of reference was broad but as legibly interconnected as the branding on the new Nike Dunk, codesigned with Futura, that made its debut on Abloh’s carnation-field runway. The chain-link fence pattern on bags, jackets, and a semitransparent poncho played nicely against the densely hand-knit sweaters that bore patches declaring membership in the “Off-White climbing club.”

Climbing was not only this collection’s second big theme—reflected in the drawstrings worked into suiting, the technical luggage, and the nylon patched knit faux fleeces—but it was also part of the broader metaphor at play. A sky blue suede trench with detachable front pockets, a double-layered floral-print down jacket and shorts, a chain-link knit off-white shirt and shorts, plus the recut denim template workwear in washed and treated technical fabrics were all highly polished and finished pieces. Conversely, the tie-dyed cargo pants (sometimes crystal set) and denim, the bandana-patched T-shirts, those dense knit sweaters, and bleached flannel shirting were all designed to appear roughened and weathered.

In a piece of tape played before the show, Bjork spoke about the “spaced-outness” of perspective, nurtured through the landscape of Iceland, that helped her learn songwriting. Abloh seems to be in search of a similar panoramic point of view—an apex position—and the topography of the clothes he is producing as he makes that ascent is benefiting from it.

Source: VOGUE

FASHIONADO

CHANEL Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

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In a show that was somber yet serene, a capturing of airiness and substance, of shrugged-on elegance and insuppressible delight, the farewell to the immense talent of Karl Lagerfeld was framed just as he’d imagined. He took us to a place high in the mountains on a beautiful day. It was a snow-bound haven—a slice of Chanel heaven, viewed from a distance that was poignantly difficult to bear.

There was an icicle-like tinkling on the soundtrack. Models assembled, one by one, on the snow-covered steps of a faux alpine hostelry, the Chanel Gardenia. It was hard, the suppressed anticipation of what was going to happen next. What is the correct form for honoring someone at a fashion show, someone who was always so fixed on waving away vulgar sentimentality, and who always had something hilariously skewering to say about the posthumous hagiographies of anyone he cared to mention? Karl Lagerfeld was the least sentimental of people. He loved his job and always regarded it as the task of continually living in the present. He reveled in letting it be known he had a “contract for life” with Chanel, which he enjoyed to the maximum moment.

Well, this is how it went. There was a minute’s silence. And then, Karl Lagerfeld’s voiceover, from a recent Chanel podcast (this man loved every tech advancement). He spoke in French, until the last sentence, where he burst through in English about his pleasure in imagining the detonation of a surprise on an audience in, “Oh! It’s like walking in a painting!”

The Chanel girls—his crew, the latest generation he’d encouraged and quipped with in the Chanel studio since 1983—were clearly conscious of the ceremonial responsibilities they had. They trod the “snow,” hands in pockets, insouciantly proving what a perfectly considered collection of wide-legged trouser suits these were—with long, swirlingly soft, checked tweed coats he’d envisaged in tandem with his longtime right-hand Virginie Viard.

That section was amazingly poised. Tailoring is a subject du jour, but through the filter of Chanel consciousness, we saw tradition, femininity, and an energetic projection of the shape of today. Let’s put it down here: The opening, some of the wide, pleated trousers, was incredibly on point—a flipping of the Chanel tradition of opening with tweed skirtsuits—with playful snowballs of tulle and crystallized snowflakes thrown into the back of the girls’ hair.

What Karl Lagerfeld never forgot—he was a rare intellectual pragmatist who frequently ridiculed high-concept fashion—is that clothes are nothing unless they are worn. That was Coco Chanel all over, too. It should be remembered that, by the late 1970s, few cared about her legacy. Her canon had been put in the shade by Yves Saint Laurent until Karl Lagerfeld was hired into the house by the Wertheimer family in 1983. It was Lagerfeld who irreverently illuminated the codes of Chanel—irradiating them in the constantly changing sidelights of the events of four decades’ worth of current affairs, the serial revolutions of fax, the Internet, social, and the global reach of fashion to new generations in Asia, and beyond.

He was always up for a topical gimmick and a punning accessory, but he also knew about emotional intelligence—that, and his connection with nature and nuances connecting the dots of his past, came through in his last few collections. The last big break he’d given his audience—the sight of barefoot girls running on a Caribbean beach—was superseded by this immersion in alpine sunlight.

So this collection was Lagerfeld at his uplifting best. No matter how dark the days were, his ability to throw on the icing of a ruffly white organza blouse, to sparkle up embroideries with a deft hand on a Nordic sweater, or to conjure dream dresses within any theme to which his huge imagination traveled. These were the gifts he gave to fashion. Today, as always.

As the models dashed away tears, and the audience stood in gratitude to applaud, the unforgettable memory of Karl Lagerfeld’s elegant, frivolous mind was lifted onto the Olympus of the fashion greats.

CHANEL Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

Source: VogueRunway

FASHIONADO

Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2018

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“A charming wardrobe based on essentials. Pre-Fall 2018 is about the neo-bohemian: Silhouettes are relaxed, the mood and palette are clean. We focused on crafty details — smocking, patchworking — and found inspiration in my love of gardens, from florals to modern updates on gardening workwear." ~Tory Burch

Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2018 - see collection.

fashionado

The Met Gala: "Beyond Fashion" 2014

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Sarah Jessica Parker / Oscar de la Renta The 2014 Met Gala is one of my favorite events of the year. Of course, if I'd be invited it would be my very favorite event, ever. So for now, red carpet photos will have to suffice. This year's theme was a tribute to legendary, American couturier Charles James. His tastes went 'beyond fashion.' Guests were encouraged to experiment with major color and decoration. Few really got it, some took it too literal. Either way, it's one of the most glamorous nights of the year.

Take a look:

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met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Anna Wintour / Chanel

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Lupita Nyong'o / Prada Lupita has been on the best dressed list for a solid year. We can overlook a mishap, right?

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Amy Adams / Oscar de la Renta

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado 

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado 

Anne Hathaway / Calvin Klein

 If the theme had been minimalism, Anne would've nailed it!

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado
met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Dita Von Teese / Zac Posen

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met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Blake Lively & Ryan Reynolds / Gucci

 Head-to-toe perfection.

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado
met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Emma Stone / Thakoon & Andrew Garfiled / Band of Outsiders

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado
met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Jay-Z & Beyonce / Givenchy

Florence Welch / Valentino

met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado
met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Lena Dunham / Giambattista Valli

Maggie Gyllenhaal / Valentino 

I love this. From the neck up.

Jessica Lange / Marc Jacobs & Marc Jacobs / Saint Laurent

Ashley & Mary-Kate Olsen / Vintage Chanel

 Would Middle-earth hurry up and swallow the twins. 

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met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Naomi Watts / Givenchy

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met-gala-2014-kimye-vogue-fashionado

Kim Kardashian & Kanye West / Lanvin

 Well, lookey who got an invite this year. They look gorgeous, though I wish Kanye had worn a bow tie.

Kristen Stewart / Chanel

Marion Cotillard / Dior

French snob wore a cocktail dress to a ball.

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met-gala-2014-vogue-fashionado

Rihanna / Stella McCartney

Flawless!

Neil Patrick Harris & David Burtka / Thom Browne

I am so torn and confused and upset. [You know] I LOVE all things Thom Browne BUT you never wear him runway style AND Neil, you're too OLD to pull this look off. Do you realize that your boyfriend looks like a harlequin?

Sarah Silverman / Zac Posen

For MORE Met Gala photos, sans my commentary, visit VOGUE.

fashionado

Vera Wang NYFW Fall 2013

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The show began with a series of black and white structured garments, capelets and fur. But it wasn't until Vera Wang gave vibrant color that she really held me captive. Brilliant pops of glimmering magenta and orange florals lit up the runway, capturing the light and mesmerizing the crowd. Rich brocades, sumptuous textiles, tulip skirts, chiffon and sequins gave way to a very beautiful collection. [The highlight of the Vera Wang show for me, to be completely honest, was crossing paths with a non-sunglass wearing Anna Wintour and getting a smile! Her red fur vest matched my red bowtie.]

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Gwen Stefani: Rock Chic in January VOGUE

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Note to self: When attempting a comeback, get on the cover of the biggest magazine, be photographed by a renown photographer and wear clothing from one of the most highly anticipated fashion collections. I guess only time will tell if it worked for

No Doubt's

Gwen Stefani

who is featured on the January cover of

Vogue -

photography by Annie Leibovitz and glammed out in Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. *Read full Vogue article 

here

.

[One of] my fashion pet peeves below:

[caption id="attachment_18608" align="alignleft" width="194" caption="Learn how to wear a hat properly Gwen! Unless if you're Boy George in the 1980s, you can not wear your hat that way. "]

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[/caption]

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For your reference Gwen (and stylist) notice the runway model wearing the same outfit. Hat worn correctly... Look & learn!

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Vogue's 10 Best Dressed ...

[caption id="attachment_17827" align="aligncenter" width="338" caption="10. January Jones"]

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[/caption]

Vogue.com's

weekly 10 best dressed list is out... Who wore what?? Placing in tenth, wearing a Rachel Zoe jumpsuit is actress January Jones. 

[caption id="attachment_17828" align="aligncenter" width="376" caption="9. Georgina Chapman"]

10-best-dressed-georgina-chapman-vogue-fashionado

[/caption]

What a surprise, she's wearing Marchesa. I wonder if Georgina Chapman ever wears anything but her own label?

[caption id="attachment_17829" align="aligncenter" width="320" caption="8. Katy Perry"]

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A lovely Katy Perry in a Wes Gordon dress.

[caption id="attachment_17830" align="aligncenter" width="338" caption="7. Amanda Seyfried"]

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[/caption]

Hollywood glam in Prabal Gurung.

[caption id="attachment_17831" align="aligncenter" width="301" caption="6. Gwen Stefani"]

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[/caption]

Calvin Klein Collection... I'm not crazy about the fit. The jacket seems too loose, especially in the sleeve.

[caption id="attachment_17832" align="aligncenter" width="376" caption="5. Jessica Chastain"]

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[/caption]

Jason Wu on her back and Harry Winston on her wrist.

[caption id="attachment_17833" align="aligncenter" width="376" caption="4. Stella Tennant"]

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Wearing Versace in SoHo...

[caption id="attachment_17834" align="aligncenter" width="183" caption="3. Rachel Weisz"]

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This is my #1... So pretty and sophisticated in Chanel at the

Skyfall

premiere in London.

[caption id="attachment_17835" align="aligncenter" width="349" caption="2. Michelle Obama"]

10-best-dressed-michelle-obama-vogue-fashionado

[/caption]

Always classy. This time in Prabal Gurung.

[caption id="attachment_17836" align="aligncenter" width="315" caption="1. Kristen Stewart"]

10-best-dressed-kristen-stewart-vogue-fashionado

[/caption]

Love this. [and she's smiling!] in Louis Vuitton.

*photos: Getty, Wire Image, Mimi Crawford

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