Viktor & Rolf SPRING 2019 COUTURE

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren titled this collection Fashion Statements. “To what extent can you say something with clothing, literally,” they said backstage. Their studio had imagined 18 outstanding, outsize dresses constructed entirely in brightly hued tulle: some with puffed sleeves, others with tiered skirts, all very colorful and very voluminous. And, well, each creation spoke for itself.

Who were these ingenues with their Rapunzel hair meant to embody? I am my own muse, said the one in solid green. Is fashion overrated? Less is more, replied the extra-wide one in gradient pink and blue. What is your position on climate change? Give a damn, declared the one in white trimmed in white and fluorescent green. Will you watch the Super Bowl? No, exclaimed the one in striped blue.

Naturally, with their characteristic monotone, the designers said they were not imposing any meaning, inviting us to arrive at our own readings. One impression was that such exaggerated volumes, while familiar territory for Horsting and Snoeren, could be a visual metaphor for the noise of likes in the virtual world, where these language memes live (Snoeren seemed pleased with this idea). What’s more, there was no mistaking these creations for actual slogan T-shirts or variations on the infamous Melania Trump jacket. All the assorted typography and graphic design—the text as well as the eagle head, the skull, the candy hearts, and so forth—resulted from layers of additional tulle. Trite sentiments backed up by technical prowess.

Altogether, the collection showcased Viktor & Rolf in the brand’s finest, sweet-meets-sinister form. As a fashion statement, it was ironic in attitude; historically inspired and Pop in presentation; detail obsessed and sophisticated in execution. The perfect formula, in other words, for the Costume Institute’s forthcoming exhibition on camp. Otherwise, several pieces could prove quite impactful on the red carpet, unwieldy shapes notwithstanding. The obvious choice: No photos, please.

Source: AMY VERNER / VogueRunway


Iris van Herpen Spring 2018 Couture

Iris van Herpen spring 2018 couture

Iris van Herpen titled her Spring 2018 couture collection "Ludi Nature." van Herpen shares her deep personal feelings about nature with Vogue and says: “I think we as humans don’t even come close to the intelligence within nature. It’s funny how people think that nature is simple and technology is complex—it’s the opposite; technology is simple and nature is complex.”



Fury, fervor, effervescence! For his first couture fashion show in Paris, Rani Zakhem celebrates life and joy in incandescent metaphors. Fire is the essential element of this sumptuous yet relaxed collection, dedicated to a volcanic woman.

As devouring as ethereal, the sacred element comes in pyrotechnic explosions and cascades of gold, drawn by embroideries of arachnoid crystals of lava on the black of a sheath whose draped top splits into a deep "V” neckline. Some creations seem to be sculpted in the light, like the pearl-beige silk dress, where red, orange and gold gems glow with a myriad of sequins that bring precious reflections back to the surface. Here the image of the volcano is spun to the neck, columned and entirely gilded, a recurring element of the collection and keystone of an architecture that favors ease, movement and, one would be tempted to add, the dancing flames that seem to devour the fabric barely touch the floor.

Reminiscent of a party in Vienna where the designer returned bedazzled, Klimt's Kiss, itself cast in a gold powder dust of stars, infuses into the collection a resolutely modernist visual vocabulary, translated into sequins of geometric forms. Geometry that also brings us into the disco spirit of the 1970s with many references to Halston, especially in a loose, single- shouldered fluid dress with a golden Mao collar, in a fanned out degradé rainbow, gold to red through yellow and bright orange. Gold, again, subtle and powdery, sculpts a feuille d'or chiffon dress, knotted in a wrap around bustier dropping into a deep backline, a tribute to Mireille Darc, elegantly quoting Guy Laroche.

Clearly, the theme of fire, sometimes extinguished leaving precious streaks of diamonds on silky nights; sometimes fluid, sizzling cascades of molten metal on a short dress with dripping panels, and sometimes gently iridescent with warm colors, is only a pretext chosen by Rani Zakhem to salute the masters who nourished his vocation.

A scarfed collared, vertiginously split yellow chiffon, plissé soleil dress with mouton sleeves, is a joyful smile addressed to Jean-Louis Scherrer. Another, short black silk satin, real Moujik tunic adorned at the bottom with pleated yellow faille and embellished with a large bow of the same fabric is a nod to Yves Saint Laurent. A third, composed of a densely embroidered golden top with narrow three-quarter sleeves, and a long black pleated skirt is a reverence to Balmain. The heart skips a beat when the liquid gold drape of a silk jersey habillé evening sheath appears, ending with a large bow of black silk satin on the shoulder, a tribute of the designer to Madame Grès.

A black silk satin kaftan, embroidered on the edges with gold sequins and flame patterns at the bottom, recalls Rani Zakhem's native orient and plays on the bond between his multiple cultures.
A delicate apotheosis of this fashion show, shaped in flowing lava and blazing fires, is the wedding dress, long and tight with its delicate whitish lace and precious simplicity , emphasizes the minimalist bias of a collection with budding emotions.


ZIAD NAKAD Spring Summer 2018 Couture

"I am Demeter, revered by all, the power most useful for gods and men."

For his Spring Summer 2018 collection, Ziad Nakad decided to celebrate the "Goddess of Wheat" and "Mother of the Earth." Goddess who gathers the fruits of the earth and offers them to humanity; its cult is particularly flourishing in the countries where this wheat is found in abundance, in Sicily, in the region of Eleusis, in Crete, in Thrace and in the Peloponnese.

Like a bird flying over the harvests, perfectly free, crossing a colorful sky, resplendent and singularly geometric - the pale blue of the firmament mixes with the yellow and gold of the wheat, the green of the earth, the coral of the ocean and the  bronze trees at sunset. Wheat ears dot the dresses, a tribute to the most iconic representation of the goddess Demeter. Dress after dress, Ziad Nakad plays a subtle game that celebrates life in a precise mastered know-how and silk embroidered sublimated tulles.

Ziad Nakad created this collection for the strong woman, assumed, voluntary but also and especially generous. Inspired by one of the most favorable deities to humans, as a symbol of accomplishment and peace.


Laskaris Spring Summer 2018 Couture

She used to sleep with snakes and nurse the reptiles. The Muse of the Laskaris  House for the Summer of 2018 is Olympias, the Princess of the Molossian of Epirus, the wife of Philip II, King of the Macedonians, and the mother of Alexander the Great. 

The inspiration of collection is based on the travelogue of a strong woman. It begins with the birth of Olympias in Pasaronas, an ancient city of Epirus. The domesticated snakes are made of skins, embroidered with handmade enamels or depicted on clothes with dazzled Swarovski. The sandals of the collection are traditionally handmade, manufactured by Laskaris. The emblem of Epirus, an oak, gives its green color to mark the collection which is composed of ivory, pastel and bright green in Grecian style. 

Olympias served in the Oracle of Dodoni where it had already been initiated into the bacchanalian mysteries. Thus, the entire collection is reminiscent of ancient Greek costumes of priestesses combined with pagan music from the Greek music band Daemonia Nymphe, which uses reconstructions of ancient instruments and lyrics in ancient Greek, with Bacchic ceremonies and invocations.  

Then, the Olympias’ life journey leads us to Samothrace, where the designer Laskaris was born and where Olympias became a priestess of the Kavarion Mysteries. The legend says that Philip II had been initiated into the mysteries, where he met and fell in love with Olympias, in a mystic ritual orgy of Kavarion Mysteries. 

The collection is influenced by the columns of the Temple of Samothrace, where the charismatic Great Alexander was conceived, during the ritual. The clothes are crafted by handmade meanders, destructurized columns, draped worked with real stones, beams of light, nervir and copper. 

Olympias told  Philip II, that one night, Zeus came to her dreams in the form of a snake and left her pregnant to Alexander the Great, which is why the Great Alexander was the son of god. Olympias then had only one mission: to make Alexander the most powerful man, as he became. 

The last phase of the collection identifies Olympias as the wife of Phillip II in Pella and in Aigia – today’s Vergina - where the leather, embossed flowers in the wreaths of the collection have been influenced.  A hymn to Vergina of Macedonia , Greece. May our Alexandre B. rest in peace .



"Close your eyes and fly to the Secret Gardens of Alexander. A utopia, a fantasy land where euphoria is the only feeling of existence! A land with never ending gardens of delicate Japanese flowers, that the human eye cannot gasp in one breath! A land with human smiles that never will be forgotten and will always watching over us.  One of them, close to my heart is Alexander Boulais!  My agent in Paris! The person that with his instinct believed in my work.  A gentle human soul, a noble man that was always calm, soft spoken with a genuine smile and loved his garden! May you be the wind and the light that crosses your Secret Gardens and always be a shining star upon us!" ~ Maria Aristidou

Maria Aristidou, a specialist in couture knit wear, created a fantasy colorful world for spring-summer daywear and eveningwear for women where romance, positive energy and freedom are the safety keys for happiness. A playground of flowered patterns with silk viscose and metallic yarns and where elaborate embroideries decorate the luxurious knit fabric creations for today's woman.

Spring Summer 2018 is a collection with carefree curves and sleek cuts, with unexpected details, and the accessories that complete the beauty of this womenswear secret garden story.


Celine Dion in VOGUE Fashion Shoot

Celine Dion wearing Bibhu Mohapatra.

Celine Dion wearing Bibhu Mohapatra.

[In my opinion] Celine Dion has always been a fashion icon. Remember her at the 1999 Oscars in her white John Galliano backwards tuxedo? Well, this time, the iconic songstress is featured in a to-die-for-I-can't-stop-watching photo/video shoot with Vogue. Celine is captivating in  Giambattista Valli, Dior, Rodarte, Maison Margiela, Valentino and of course, Chanel. The video (above) captures all the clips that were posted by Vogue Magazine today on Instagram.  This. Is. What. A. Real Diva look like. Flawless.