Comme des Garçons Shirt Spring 2023 Menswear

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Comme des Garçons Shirt Spring 2023 Menswear

Rei Kawakubo has said that if she could have invented one garment, it would have been the white shirt. “It’s a fundamental part of a man’s wardrobe,” her husband, translator, and company CEO, Adrian Joffe, said on her behalf. “Shirt, jacket, and pants are the fundamental basis.”

There’s irony in the fact that Comme des Garçons operates a menswear brand called Shirt, dedicated to finding myriad ways to deconstruct a button-down.

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Acne Studios Spring 2023 Menswear

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Acne Studios Spring 2023 Menswear

By any objective measure at least, Acne Studios is on top. September will see the proudly independent Swedish fashion arthouse mark a decade on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. And it used the pandemic dynamically, making a multi-million euro investment to cook up a fresh retail concept for the grand store that opened with much fanfare earlier this week, at the very same Rue St Honoré space where Jonny Johannson once used to shop for Helmut Lang in the early aughts.

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Rick Owens Spring 2023 Menswear

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Rick Owens Spring 2023 Menswear

This Rick Owens show was the end of the world. Or at least that is what the three 2-meter-ish across orbs that were set alight by technicians, slowly lifted by crane high above us, and then dropped to a sizzling impact in the Palais de Tokyo fountain were there to represent.

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John Elliott Spring 2023 Menswear

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John Elliott Spring 2023 Menswear

As menswear springs back from its comfort-centric pandemic years, brands that thrived selling loose, effortless clothes are grappling with how to evolve. John Elliott took his show to Paris for the first time in a long time, explaining over Zoom that “you take showing in Paris with a level of focus and respect.”

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Erdem Spring 2023 Menswear

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Erdem Spring 2023 Menswear

Beautiful young men standing in an English country garden, against beds of succulent purple and yellow flag irises. Erdem Moralioglu, with his cinematic eye for glancingly historical biographical references, almost conjured a reincarnation of an everyday scene from the country life of the painter and plantsman Cedric Morris for his summer menswear collection.

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Rolf Ekroth Spring 2023 Menswear

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Rolf Ekroth Spring 2023 Menswear

For the past few years Rolf Ekroth has been going it alone in more ways than one, working solo in a small studio in Helsinki and trying to get his nascent brand off the ground without backing. Spring finds the designer ebullient, having very much enjoyed the company of his four collaborators.

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