Pre-Fall 2020 Menswear Louis Vuitton

For a guy as collab-happy as Virgil Abloh—last month the Louvre released images of the collection he created for its Leonardo da Vinci exhibition—his Louis Vuitton tenure has been remarkably light on partnerships. Abloh says that’s intentional. “I wanted to start off without collaborations, so people could see my point of view on the brand,” he explains. But 18 months after his debut, LV’s artistic director of menswear is ready to commit. Abloh has exclusively shared with Vogue that he’s teamed up with his friend Nigo, the Japanese streetwear pioneer and founder of A Bathing Ape, on a capsule collection to be released mid-2020.

“Me being at Louis Vuitton is directly attributable to work Nigo’s done in the past,” Abloh reflects. “A collab project with him—it puts his work in the right context. He inspired me to do what I do. I thought it was a full-circle moment.” Indeed, when Abloh was hired at Vuitton, Nigo called it “a victory for our team, the streetwear crowd.”

There are no pictures of the collaboration just yet, but if Abloh’s latest collection for the Paris house is any indication, the capsule will be heavy on logos. For pre-fall, fanny packs feature supersize LVs in an unfinished embroider-by-numbers design and the familiar canvas monogram has been disrupted with what look like streaks of colorful tape, only rendered in inlaid leather. “Only at a house like LV can you take a quote-unquote student idea and make it trompe l’oeil into beautifully crafted versions,” Abloh says.

As for the clothes, Abloh put his fingerprints on the famous monogram in any number of ways: enlarging it on a mink bomber and cotton separates, mashing it up with camouflage and jacquard, and quilting it onto lightweight puffer jackets. The surprise is Abloh’s new tailoring, which has a more to-the-body, even formal silhouette. “When I started at Louis Vuitton I was interested in relaxed luxury, oversized, [the idea] that luxury didn’t need to be stiff, and I’ve made that point,” he says. In other words, we should expect more of these streamlined fits on his fall 2020 runway next month. And the famous mid-layer garments, too. Abloh says they’re connecting with customers beyond the red carpet. “They reinforce my goal of defining a silhouette.”

Source: Vogue

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The Best Street Style from Pitti Uomo Fall/Winter 2020

Menswear fashion season is in full swing and is not slowing down! Right now all eyes are on the stylish Pitti Uomo and GQ Magazine captured some of the best streetstylers on the block. What we love personally about Pitti style is that the dapper dudes making headlines are real men in their 30s, 40s, 50s+ showing off their badass, trendsetting sense of style… take note boys.

The fashion marathon marches on. The menswear world has migrated from avant-garde-heavy London to the traditionalist-packed Fortezza de Basso in Florence, Italy. For a few days, the fort plays home to Pitti Uomo, the industry's most significant trade show. It also plays home to the planet's gnarliest devotees of tailoring. That means the famous Pitti peacocks, of course, but it also means guys who are invested in finding new and different ways to wear soft-shouldered blazers, colorful suits, and shoes that aren't sneakers. It's basically the Olympics of street style—and these are our favorite looks so far.

Source: GQ

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Stefan Cooke Fall 2020 Menswear

Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt called their collection, rather ominously, The End. The words were painted on a handbag like movie credits. The set—empty chairs and music stands—suggested a hall just after an orchestra has left post-recital. It wouldn’t be a surprise if the two of them were looking back and feeling the reverberations of everything they’ve made and achieved since they graduated from Central Saint Martins MA in 2017.

“With the end of the decade, we felt like we were ushering out the old,” said Cooke, “and this is the new version of what we do.” Burt chimed in: “Or maybe more professional, in a way.” Well, not so fast. Cooke and Burt have invented much which is identifiable, a configuration of skinny silhouettes and ingenious playing with classic British staples like argyle patterns, tweeds, and funny forms of chain mail, for starters. None of that felt old at all in this show. The trick in any young designer’s career is knowing how to capitalize on signatures.

Growing up and struggling with the reality of business means they may be feeling different from the heady days of shooting out of college on a rush of ideas and adrenaline. Nevertheless, if they’re focusing on balancing creativity and wearability, they made a good job of it. The boyish quirky-chic of the pierced and slashed harlequin knits—first of all made into scarves—was joined by new takes on Fair Isle sweaters. The idea of a yoked neckline flowed over into the slash-neck coat-jacket shapes; a neat way of making old English checks less dad-like (with some mini kilts as accessories).

Now, the super-skinny Cooke legs are encased in real denim, not trompe l’oeil printed legging-jeans, and that was a stride forward. It’s the result of a collaboration with Lee Jeans, which gave Cooke a free hand with printing, studding, and grommeting with jeans and jackets. A commercial brand relationship, then. Surely this is the beginning of a new chapter, rather than an end.

Source: Vogue

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E. Tautz Fall 2020 Menswear

“Fashion, a world of consumption and destruction that heaps misery upon human beings and reaps damage on the planet on a scale almost no other industry comes close to matching.” Phew. It’s fair to say that Patrick Grant sounded pretty agonized in this E. Tautz collection’s press release. Happily, that agony resulted in a 26-look set of clothes that prompted, well, if not quite ecstasy, then certainly something much improved upon misery.

Grant is a designer whose refined throwback sensibility—Savile Row 2.0.2.0—very often results in beautifully silhouetted and fabricated menswear which sometimes skates perilously over the thin ice of anachronism. Here we saw it again in a collection that combined hints of lubricious decadence (especially the sexy, luxe-trashy asymmetrically paneled Louboutin pumps over tube socks) with wide-eyed schoolboy Englishness (or at least Edinburgh-flavored Englishness) in surgically cut post-Oxford bags and matchy-matchy tropical twill chinos and blousons.

As shoehorned-in via that opening quote, however, the emphasis here was on sustainability. About 50% of the collection Grant reckoned was made from repurposed fabrics, much of it provided by Astco, an industrial recycler whose boss happens to be a Grant bespoke client at Norton & Sons and who pitched in with the denim and shirting. Then there was the darning and patching, executed by students from the Royal College of Needlework (also an often-time collaborator of Sarah Burton’s). This saw irregular check patches insinuated upon herringbone outerwear, or herringbone patches upon check suiting, or layers of differently washed denim patched onto denim. In the suiting especially it was interesting, adding a depth of patina and pentimento, a roughness, to that most surface-defined of menswear genres.

Backstage Grant railed like a Shakespearean lead with a BBC reality show contract about the conflicting instincts that mutual fealty to fashion and ecological survival stir up, then disclosed he has started darning his clothes, which in turn prompted a very senior and glamorous Hearst editor to disclose that she now darns her pantyhose (is Hearst in trouble?). The fundamental point about E. Tautz is that if you like it then buy it because the quality is superb. You will wear it until you, not it, are due for recycling. Unless we all decide to go naked, that’s about as ecologically sound as fashion can be.

Source: Vogue

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Bianca Saunders RTW Fall 2020

Bianca Saunders re-created dancehall parties for her presentation and focused on movement and contrast for her new collection. The space was sectioned off into curtained partitions where models grooved to dancehall music. “I wanted to create a peep show idea of the dancehall scene, because dance can be quite sexual and when you’re at a club, despite being surrounded by people, you’re very much in your own moment,” she mused.

Despite their tailored construction, the clothes were designed to dance in. Saunders curved seams, twisted fabrics and moved shoulder seams closer to the neck so that it would shift. Long overcoats had double hems that moved easily over long and loose shirts. A bleached and fluid denim ensemble stole the show.

By altering its construction, Saunders breathed new life into these men’s wear staples.

Source: WWD

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Gucci and Disney Celebrate Chinese New Year With Mickey Mouse Collaboration

Although Gucci‘s already prepping a variety of seasonal releases — including Spring/Summer 2020 and the subsequent Pre-Fall range — the Italian luxury brand is squeezing in one more delivery before the new year. In preparation for Chinese New Year 2020, Gucci is rejoining Disney for a brief array of Mickey Mouse goods.

Of course, this isn’t the first time the two companies have joined forces, but it isn’t without reason. Chinese New Year 2020 is the Year of the Mouse — or Rat, depending on translation — meaning that there’s no better time to celebrate Disney’s iconic mascot.

To commemorate the season in style, Gucci has revamped a trio of timeless menswear staples with thematic designs. A GG Supreme coated canvas coat sports all-over Mickeys, layered atop Gucci’s legendary interlocking logo. Elsewhere, a trim-fitting short-sleeved wool shirt sports an extended collar and warm plaid for a retro touch, underscored by Mickey appliqué on the chest pocket. Finally, a lightweight cotton gauze shirt is summer ready in both shape and style, with colorful Mickey and Minnie prints gracing the entirety of the garment.

Shop Disney and Gucci’s Chinese New Year collaboration on MATCHESFASHION.COM’s website ahead of the festivities on January 25. The GG Supreme coat weighs in at $4,900 USD, the wool shirt is $950 USD and the cotton shirt is a slightly more modest $930 USD.

Source: HypeBeast

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Lenox Square Welcomes Scotch & Soda in Time for Holiday Season

Amsterdam-based fashion company opens at Buckhead’s iconic shopping destination.

Scotch & Soda is officially open at Lenox Square, marking the fashion company’s first brick-and-mortar storefront in the state. The high-end Amsterdam-based brand occupies a 1,500 sq. foot space near Bloomingdale’s and offers men’s and woman’s apparel, accessories and footwear.

“Lenox Square has long been recognized as the most iconic shopping destination of the southeast,” said Lenox Square and Phipps Plaza Vice President of Leasing Michelle Smart. “Scotch & Soda is a natural complement to the center’s lineup of revered names, and we know our shoppers will flock to the curated shopping experience this holiday season and in the future.”

Scotch & Soda embodies an authentic Amsterdam aesthetic with its likeness of superabundant color, print and texture. The store is outfitted in bespoke vintage furniture, hardwood flooring and unique cabinetry. Designed with its neighborhood in mind, the new outpost is a physical embodiment of Scotch & Soda – eclectic, attention to detail, effortless style, and above all, an unparalleled shopping experience.

Scotch & Soda are inspired by the world and curated by Amsterdam. A team of passionate discoverers and collectors, scouring the globe for that painting, poem, vintage piece, ruin, or artefact that sparks our never-ending curiosity. Treasures uncovered on worldly wanders are poured into collections and signature looks that clash eras, classics, places of inspiration, meshing unexpected fabrics and patterns. Men’s, women’s and children’s all start life at our canal side design studio in a former church in the heart of Amsterdam. Scotch & Soda has over 225 stores, and can be found in over 8000 doors including the best global department stores and independents, and in our webstore.

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