The CFDA and Retail Industry Sends Letter to the White House Calling for Support Amidst Coronavirus Crisis

Lower Manhattan streets are all but emptied of shoppers. Photo: VogueRunway/Getty Images

Lower Manhattan streets are all but emptied of shoppers. Photo: VogueRunway/Getty Images

As the coronavirus pandemic has taken hold of the U.S. over the last week, designers have been outspoken about the challenges facing the fashion industry in this crisis. Citing impending cash flow issues for brands up and down the price spectrum Prabal Gurung told Vogue that “this situation will not be fixed by a sale.” Brandon Maxwell, for his part, said “my main focus through all of this is going to be my team and keeping everyone employed, number one, and making sure everyone is feeling healthy, mentally and physically.” Retailers, too, have been forthright about the struggles posed by “stay-at-home” and “shelter in place” regulations. “The supply chain is severely affected by this. I can only imagine, in the coming months, how it will affect things for next season... There is no question that it will be a challenging year ahead of us,” said Andrew Dryden, the co-founder of LA’s menswear mecca Departamento.

Yesterday, the CFDA and 90 business groups including the National Retail Federation, the Accessories Council, and the Fashion Footwear Association of New York brought their concerns to the White House, sending a letter to President Trump calling for economic stabilization efforts amidst the coronavirus pandemic. The letter begins by commending the Administration and Congress for their public health efforts and actions to minimize the economic fallout caused by the spread of the virus. It goes on, however, to state: “The economic harm from social distancing and mandatory store closures is real. Layoffs and economic hardship will surely follow, particularly for smaller, specialty retailers and brands. The biggest single issue facing the industry right now is liquidity, and federal stimulus efforts must be swift and flexible enough to address the urgent need for access to credit to keep these businesses afloat.” The letter concludes by encouraging policymakers to develop proposals that support the retail workforce and to provide a “bridge” for retail businesses of all sizes to stay viable during the crisis.

“The fashion business has been hit hard and from every angle. American Fashion is a $400 billion driving force of the US economy employing 4 million people, not including retail jobs. The retail industry is the nation’s largest private-sector employer, contributing $4 trillion to annual GDP and supporting one in four U.S. jobs—53 million working Americans,” said Tom Ford, Chairman of the Board of the CFDA. “Tory Burch has been actively driving a CFDA effort to urge the President and Congress that fashion and retail be part of any stimulus packages being developed. She quickly organized a group of industry leaders who were behind the letter that was sent the President on Saturday. The CFDA’s strength lies within it members, and we are thankful for Tory’s commitment to our industry.”

“It is imperative that our government, the federal reserve, regulators, and the public understand the vital importance of our industry to the overall economy of the United States,” Burch told Vogue. “Directly and indirectly we are one of the largest employers and contributors to the GDP. We must make our voices heard ... for our industry and our country!”

John Idol, the Chairman and CEO of Capri Holdings, parent company of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, echoed Burch’s sentiments: “As with all Americans, the most important issue facing us is employment. We know that this pandemic will eventually subside and the industry will return to a new normal. In the interim, we need financial assistance in the form of immediate payroll subsidies, no-interest loans, and extended tax-payment relief in order for us to continue our commitment to retain our employees.”

In Washington DC today, negotiations around a stimulus package of approximately $1.4 trillion are ongoing. As the retail industry waited to hear the outcome—an announcement is expected Monday morning—Marc Metrick, the President of Saks Fifth Avenue, emphasized the importance of community: “Our utmost priority is the health and well-being of our people, customers, and communities. Our industry has historically faced and overcome a number of headwinds. This situation is not only unprecedented, but also constantly evolving. The best and most important thing we can do today is to work together as an industry, so that all of us can weather this storm and come out the other side.”

Source: Nicole Phelps/ VogueRunway

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OCTAVIUS MARISON DEBUTS FW 20/21 COLLECTION WITH FASHION DESIGN STUDENTS AT THE ART INSTITUTE OF ATLANTA

Photo Credits: Paras Griffin/GETTY and Art Institute of Atlanta’s Taylor Bareford; Phaedra Williamson

Photo Credits: Paras Griffin/GETTY and Art Institute of Atlanta’s Taylor Bareford; Phaedra Williamson

On March 14, 2020 the Art Institute of Atlanta made fashion history with their extraordinary, student-driven production which even made national headlines via E! News and Essence.com. The newsworthy event boasted a celeb-filled front row to include Eva Marcille, Angelica Ross, Dyllon Burnside, Terri J. Vaughn and Jamal Sims, who directed the show that provided the talented students of the Art Institute of Atlanta the experience of a real-world, first-class production. Students, faculty and administrators across all disciplines worked together in unison to produce the multi-media extravaganza: fashion design, photography, video & audio production, culinary arts, graphic design and interior design.

Sixteen fashion design students participated in the juried fashion premiere. They showcased capsule collections in menswear and ready-to-wear featuring a wide variety of genres, from eveningwear to gender-fluid fashion. It was evidently clear that the future of fashion is alive and thriving at the Art Institute of Atlanta. For added educational value and impact, the young designers were paired with professional fashion designers months before the runway show. The mentorship guided students to success while offering real-world working situations that included multiple fittings with professional models, critiques, garment mockups and working alongside industry professionals on all levels of production.

Visually, the fashion show was dynamic, from the set to the clothes to the choreography of the models. The set was designed and built by Carlton Lee Studios and featured two jumbo screens and a custom neon lit runway within the open air lower deck of the parking lot - think The Fast & The Furious, Tokyo Drift. To drive home the theme (no pun intended) Lexus sponsored the event with car placement - on the runway itself! The Lexus LC 500 and Lexus RCF Track Edition were positioned front and center becoming a focal point and anchoring the runway. Jamal Sims (Aladdin movie choreographer) directed the show to perfection. The culmination of movement, set design, hair and make up by Paul Mitchell Schools and of course, the fashion, made for a spectacular presentation.

Lastly but most certainly not least, Octavius Terry, the man behind the vision and the Art Institute of Atlanta’s Fashion Coordinator said this was a “dream come true.” Terry, who is a menswear designer, joined the Art Institute nearly two years ago and from the beginning talked about bringing together all departments for an all-inclusive, collaborative production that, under faculty guidance, would be 100% student driven and produced. His dream was realized and more.

Octavius Terry debuted his FW 20/21 menswear collection titled “Octavius Marison.” The fourteen look collection offered an elevated interpretation of streetwear meets sartorial elegance. “The mix of modern living and antiquated living (near the Wall of China)” was an inspiration said Terry. “Kill Bill came to mind because it is all about the underdog rising and that’s what I felt about our school, faculty, students and also myself.” The collection was rich in color and pattern. It was edgy yet wearable. An obsession-worthy key element to the collection were the various ponchos with bold zipper hardware. A definite must-have.

And just as we thought things couldn’t get bigger or better, the grand finale came with a Proclamation for Octavius Terry presented by Councilman Antonio Brown - an emotional highlight of the evening.

History was made at the Art Institute of Atlanta. On all levels.

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Rick Owens Launches “Stripped-Down" SS20 Champion Campaign

First seen on the runway during Paris Fashion WeekRick Owens has now officially launched his expansive, inaugural Champion collaboration for Spring/Summer 2020. A host of the American heritage label’s signature styles, including Reverse Weave hoodies and basketball shorts, are transformed in Owens’ image, described by the designer himself as “stripped-down togas, loincloths and robes.”

Select stores received the goods last month, but Owens is rolling out thematic imagery showcasing models layered up in the progressive garments. Champion’s sporty mesh, usually seen on jerseys and basketball shorts, now graces robe-like coats, tunic shirts and tiny loincloth-inspired skirts, alongside more conventional goods like hoodies and T-shirts. Similarly, Champion’s Reverse Weave textile informs both dramatically-revamped styles, including a lengthy pullover with between-the-legs snap closure, and accessible items like a zippered hoodie, all emblazoned with a co-branded star graphic indebted to Owens’ DRKSHDW sub-label branding.

The co-branding holds special meaning to Owens, who reportedly took cues from Champion’s script logo for his own mainline branding. “When I started my label in the Nineties,” he told WWD, “I hand-drew my logo as a cross between the Champion logo and a Jean Patou perfume label. They both had a similar vintage calligraphic flair.”

Source: Hypebeast

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Virgil Abloh Shares Pics of His LV² Collaboration With Nigo

When Virgil Abloh announced his Louis Vuitton collaboration with Nigo in December, he gave props to the Japanese streetwear pioneer. “Me being at Louis Vuitton is directly attributable to work Nigo’s done in the past,” Abloh said. “A collab project with him—it puts his work in the right context.”

The French luxury goods house famously partnered with Supreme in 2017, when Kim Jones was still LV’s menswear designer, but this hookup is different. There are no logos for Nigo’s brand, Human Made, on these clothes and accessories. In fact, there’s not much streetwear in the collection at all. “Let’s not do the expected,” is how Abloh characterized the interaction between himself and his mentor and friend.

That rings true with a statement Abloh made in an interview Dazed published shortly after the Louis Vuitton and Nigo project was announced. “I would definitely say it’s gonna die, you know? Like, its time will be up,” was how Abloh summed up streetwear’s fate at the time. As offhand as the comment was (see below), it stirred up quite a lot of internet talk in the industry and beyond. Three months later, Abloh has some new thoughts on the topic. He shared them, along with photos of his collaboration with Nigo, exclusively with Vogue.

Tell me about your friendship with Nigo.

He’s among the first real mentors I had in fashion. Since my trajectory was different, had I been a quote, unquote traditional designer, I might’ve gone to New York and apprenticed under Donna Karan. But since streetwear is a new genre of fashion design, those earliest mentors, the Yves Saint Laurent or Balenciaga of streetwear, it’s Nigo, it’s James Jebbia, who founded Supreme. They took what was organically happening within culture—skate and street brands—and they made hard-core brands from that.

Nigo, I was fortunate over 15 years ago to have met him in Japan. He took us under his wing and showed us the ropes of how he was building the brand A Bathing Ape at the time.

What was the process of working with him like?

We met in his studio [in Tokyo]. He has a completely vertical fashion brand with Human Made. In one building, he designs, does the photo shoot, does the manufacturing. I was impressed by that. We had subsequent meetings in my studio in Paris. They were really hands-on. Our strongpoint is the art direction of the concept. What people might be most surprised by is that for two guys known for streetwear history and ability, the collection is completely the opposite. That was our starting point: Let’s not do the expected. Let’s not put streetwear in a box. That’s the epiphany within the collaboration.

You’re doing a lot of tailoring together.

Yeah. If you were to say our names and that we’re doing something at Louis Vuitton, you would almost be able to predict it. But to me fashion with a capital F, it’s supposed to take you on a journey, to lead. Last fall I did an interview where a quote was taken out of context; my sentiment was that streetwear will die.

Virgil Abloh says streetwear is dead. It was the quote heard around the fashion world…

I’m such a novice; I don’t realize that things can even go that far. I’m a little bit naive in that way. It was literally me in my kitchen just riffing on what I’d been thinking. I didn’t say it to be polarizing. I think that in the context of this conversation with Nigo—if you speak to anyone that’s been in streetwear for the last 15 years, it’s always had this sort of nine lives, dying and coming back, and dying and coming back. There’s so many first-generation streetwear brands, stores, and retailers. The market wasn’t as vibrant as it is now, so they went out of business and people don’t remember those. Nigo has had projects before; he’s had many a brand, many identities within streetwear. Partially what I meant that “it will die” is that new things like tailoring from guys like Nigo and me will be born from the regeneration of it.

Back to the collaboration. You’ve put the LV Damier check to good use. It’s not something you’ve touched on yet, right?

A hundred percent. I thought this was a perfect project to do things like that. The mood of the collection started off with our appreciation for the U.K. dandy and the mod era, Savile Row tailoring. That gave us the silhouette; but when it came to adding our own texture within the silhouette, that was very much using the codes of the house.

When I think of Japan, I think of denim. You’ve done some amazing things with the material here.

What the Japanese are known for is great archiving and reinterpretations of Americana. Nigo has one of the most formidable collections; he has some of the very early Lee and Levi’s pieces that were ever found. His personal style, he’s a true connoisseur. He buys his suits on Savile Row. He goes for the experience, the custom bespoke nature of it. Also, his personal collection of denim! When it was a matter of developing these pieces, I thought that was the most authentic [thing], using him as a muse.

So, his influence is in the bags?

He had this brand called Ice cream with this drippy signature. I thought, What if we made that playfulness a little more serious and merged it with the Louis Vuitton signature?

And I see you’ve done a hooded bomber with Mount Fuji on the back.

We would do those pieces in our sleep. But we didn’t want the collection to be 100% that. My program at Louis Vuitton, the overarching vision is father to son. So, having a portion of more mature pieces with youthful pieces.

Let’s talk about the LV² label. Is it only applicable to you and Nigo, or is it a new logo for you plus somebody else going forward?

It’s something for Nigo and me specifically. It’s like a new rap group. Nigo came up with the name of LV². We were from outside having an opinion and just styling it. Now we’re inside designing it and styling it.

What’s the most important thing you’ve learned from Nigo?

It’s a sense of detail, a Japanese precision. But also generosity. He’s extremely heartfelt. I’m American and I work a lot in Europe. In Paris fashion can be cutthroat. It can have this manic feeling. In America it’s very workhorse. Working with him and having him in the studio, seeing his disposition and how he was thinking of the challenge of making tailoring, of how to refine all these ideas, he did it in a very respectful, calm, polite, but very precise way.

So is it really just a one-off?

Yeah, but as we’ve finally finished, there’s already been talks that this could be an ongoing logic. I think both sides are open to it, so I wouldn’t rule out that other things could come. I can say the future will involve a way of activating this collection, when it comes time to release, that will be more immersive than just simply putting it out into stores. We both have a passion for eventizing these moments. It’s not just the clothes, it’s the context.

Source: Vogue

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Fashion Veteran Octavius Terry and Top Atlanta Fashion Designers Guide Students of The Art Institute of Atlanta To Runway Success

Seventeen up-and-coming fashion designers to showcase their work

alongside Terry’s at a Japanese Street Racing themed show.

Fashion designer, Octavius Terry

Fashion designer, Octavius Terry

On March 14, 2020, seventeen designers from The Art Institute of Atlanta will showcase the talent, determination, and creativity they’ve transformed into their Fall/Winter 20/21 and Spring ‘21 collections. The show will take place at The Art Institute of Atlanta located at 6600 Peachtree Dunwoody Rd, Atlanta, GA 30328. The evening begins with a VIP reception at 4 p.m. and followed by the runway show at 6 p.m.

The show is the brainchild of Octavius Terry, fashion designer and fashion design program director at The Art Institute of Atlanta. Current fashion students at the school vied for the opportunity to show their collections at the event. Designers were vetted and selected by the school’s fashion faculty and seventeen were chosen to proceed in designing a mini-collection of three to six looks based on the theme of “Tokyo Drift.” Each designer was mentored along the way by elite Atlanta fashion professionals Brandin Vaughn, Ismael Pacheco, Jasmine Elder, Kudzanai Karidza, and Reco Chapple. The seventeen student designers’ work will be shown alongside Terry’s Fall/Winter 20/21 collection titled “OCTAVIUS MARISON” at the event and promises to be a night to remember in Atlanta fashion.

“These designers understand that fashion is more than buzz worthy garments. It’s a process that involves inspiration, sketching, fabric selection, garment construction, and endless revisions before a creation can be shown,” said Terry. “They’ve overcome challenges and pushed their creative limits. Along the way, they’ve proven that they have what it takes to design and present a collection on the runway.”

The show is giving more than these seventeen students a glimpse into the life of fashion. “Current students in The Art Institute’s programs have helped to create an event that will wow the Atlanta fashion community and make the show an annual staple on the city’s fashion calendar,” said Campus President Elden Monday. “The filming, graphic design, catering, and audio for the event are all being handled by our students. Culinary students will cater the event, film and photography students will capture the evening’s excitement by camera, industrial design and graphic students have helped to design sets and materials as well. Across the campus, this event gives students the opportunity to work on a real-life project and make an impact in the arts.”

Carlton Lee Studios is assisting with set design and famed choreographer Jamal Sims is directing and co- producing for the event. Tickets for the VIP party and event can be purchased HERE.

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PLANET FASHION TV BRINGS SUSTAINABLE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

New York City was hopping during New York Fashion Week 2020! From February 6 - 12, the streets of Manhattan were bustling with fashion designers and executives, media, models, fashionistas and the fashion curious -- all running between NYFW events held throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn to see the latest cutting-edge fashions for the new year. Among the events was Sustainable New York Fashion Week, held at Chelsea Piers - Pier 59. A boutique luxury exhibition, Sustainable NYFW highlighted eight sustainable designers from various corners of the world whose fashions were made with earth-preserving processes and/or recycled materials.

Over 800 attendees packed the gorgeous Current Room overlooking the Hudson River, watching the designer shows and panel talks, browsing the pop-up shops and sampling the various food and drinks provided by the event sponsors. The 7-hour event was produced and emceed by Celia Evans of the Miami-based media production company Planet Fashion TV.

The Designers

The exhibition featured eight trailblazing fashion designers whose missions are to conserve the earth’s resources by using sustainable, eco-friendly materials and/or use sustainable processes in creating their fashion wear and accessories. Each designer spoke about their fashions and how they were made in engaging panel discussions moderated by Evans, held before each show. The designers who presented were:

New Zealand-born designer Debra Lee Cheyne of Butterscotch Castle who deconstructs and redesigns vintage and discarded apparel and fabrics to create chic women’s fashion wear;

Australian jewelry designer Angela Clarke of Angela Clarke Jewelry who creates sustainable and ethical jewelry pieces made of beads, stones, and Swarovski crystals;

Australian brand Bamboozld who manufacture socks and undergarments out of sustainable bamboo material,

UnisBrands NYFW Event Fashionado

Pennsylvanian designer Nick Unis of UnisBrands developed a machine to make plastic bottles into fabric that he then crafts in to hip sneakers;

Wildling Shoes NYFW Event Fashionado

German shoe brand Wildling Shoes that protect healthy feet from injury or the environment but also help protect the environment by using environmentally-friendly materials and resource-saving production techniques;

New Yorker sustainable designer and teacher Bridgett Artise of Born Again Vintage gives vintage garments that have lost their luster another chance at being fashionable, recycling fabrics and textiles into timeless pieces;

KINDOM is a sustainable and ethical apparel and accessories brand based in Los Angeles.

Leafy Natural Couture NYFW Event Fashionado

Brazilian designer Silvia Vassão of Leafy Natural Couture was not present at the event, but 10 of her designs were shown as the grand finale for the event. Silvia creates luxury women’s couture hand-woven with hand-spun silk from Brazilian silkworms.

The evening included a keynote speech by the United Nations Sustainable Development Specialist Francesca Zoppi. In her talk, Zoppi discussed the United Nations' sustainability goals, including reducing global emissions, ocean cleanup and ethical wages.

Planet Fashion TV is a half hour syndicated series in HD and 4K produced by Sea Star Films production company based out of Miami Florida. Coverage includes fast segmented stories on art, architecture, luxury products, automotive, cutting edge eco products, interior design, music fashion and cultural trends in different cities around the world. This is a travel meets style show. planetfashiontv.com

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