Philipp Plein Fall 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

Philipp Plein felt bad about the two gold helicopters. Along with the two gold fighter jets and the gold sort-of Sunseeker and the gold supercars that decorated this stadium show space, they were props that had been commissioned late last year. “If I would have known what happened, after the accident, I would not have put helicopters there…. It was terrible what happened, but I couldn’t cancel the helicopters anymore. So I just wanted to say this.” Not only did Plein get that said preshow backstage, but postshow on the podium with Tyga—following a finale featuring Plein-logo, almost Lakers purple, Swarovski-encrusted, number 24 basketball shirts—he added that he was making a donation to the Mamba & Mambacita Sports Foundation in memory of Kobe Bryant and his 13-year-old daughter, Gianna.

Say what you want about Plein—and we always do—his presentations are impressive. This one featured not only Tyga but also Jada Pinkett Smith opening the show, Missy Elliott in the audience (due to perform alongside Timbaland at the closing party), and a cast that was sprinkled with faces including Maye Musk (because PP had been in touch to try to cast Elon’s new truck but ended up casting his mom), Cameron Dallas, Bambi, and Gigi Gorgeous. Most impressive of all was that there were 3,000 people in the audience (totally immune to the coronavirus outbreak barely 20 miles away) holding up their phones and streaming it all to social.

The true motive behind all this hoo-ha was the launch of a fragrance that Plein has named No Limits. He hard-selled it from the podium at the beginning of the show and had said earlier that the set was an imagined landscape if you had a no-limits credit line. He expanded thus: “Women have a lot of ideas. They would probably go shopping. And guys would probably do what I would do. I mean, I think I’m a good example for being a little bit crazy, and what I would do is make a big party like tonight.”

The clothes that reflected this party were perfectly Plein-ian. They featured more tiny wannabe studs than a PUA convention. The emphasis was on gold—although PP says he’s a silver man—as a line in the sand to this challenge to Paco Rabanne’s domination of the balls-out, all-subtlety-barred fragrance consumer. There was some pretty good suiting for men and some half-decent (but still more-than-risqué) sequined dresses for women, and cool emoji embroideries on a fishtail parka featuring graffiti dollar signs.

By the end of this seemingly endless but endlessly entertaining show, you had to hand it to PP: He’s a democratic designer. What that says about democracy is another issue entirely.

Source: VOGUE

FASHIONADO

Bottega Veneta Fall 2020 Menswear

In between his last show and this one, Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee swept London’s Fashion Awards, scooping up four statuettes, more than any designer has ever managed to win in a single year before. Among the prizes were the designer of the year and the brand of the year. Lee has the industry’s attention, that’s clear. Fashion loves a new guy, and collectively we’ve determined he’s “it.” There was not one, but two major profiles of Lee published in the days before this Milan show. Tonight’s collection, his third on the runway, suggests he has the goods to back that up.

He definitely has the guts. After scoring his first hit with the Pouch bag, a clutch that shrugged off the house patrimony woven intrecciato leather, he did the contrarian thing this season: He embraced the intrecciato. Only his intrecciato pouches come with a difference: They’re double-faced, meaning they’re unlined and the leather strips are double-sided, so the same exceptional workmanship visible on the exterior of the bag is exposed on the interior. It’s the kind of modernizing touch—apparently instinctual, but in the end quite thoughtful—that Lee is making his own. Consider another: a high-heeled sandal that curled ergonomically around the ankle and was made on a 3D printer, BV’s first stab at the process and quite a sexy one.

Previewing the accessories at a showroom appointment, Lee extemporized about Bottega Veneta. “When you look at the brand’s beginnings, everything it made was so soft. I find that super inspiring.” That thinking informed the ready-to-wear he put on tonight’s runway. But equally, so did the fact that at 34 Lee is part of the street wear generation, a cohort that came up wearing Nike trainers and clothes that put an emphasis on cool and comfort. Explaining his approach to fall at BV he asked, “How do we put ourselves together in a considered, elegant way but still feel comfortable?”

His answer was stretch. Even the men’s tailoring was built with stretch in it, he said, so it moves with the wearer. This was the big change from his debut to today. Last February he seemed mostly concerned with the profile cut by a man or a woman in Bottega Veneta. A year later he’s come to understand that the way his clothes feel to the bodies inside them is just as important a selling point. That’s why you’ll see a big emphasis on both knit dressing and jersey, for both day and evening. The other major talking point here was all the fringing. For one reason or another fringe been a popular motif in Milan—see also Prada and Jil Sander—but no one has been as audacious on the subject as Lee. His fringed shearlings will be instantly identifiable on the streets a year from now, although truth be told, they would’ve been more powerful if fringe wasn’t already such a collective movement.

This was a confident outing, one that leaned into controlled repetition to drive its points home. Lee has quite handily established his Bottega Veneta as the coolest brand in town. He said he’s been spending a lot of time at La Scala watching dance performances; he likes all kinds, from ballet to modern. With the wind at his back at BV, going forward he should give himself freer rein to explore—to let go.

Source: VOGUE

FASHIONADO

Valentino's Mytheresa-Exclusive Menswear Capsule

Valentino Fall/Winter 2020 boasted the label’s largest collaboration to date, as the Italian brand joined with UNDERCOVER for a host of co-branded wearables. Spring/Summer 2020 focuses on in-house designs but that doesn’t mean the brand is forgoing collaborations entirely; the Pierpaolo Piccioli-helmed label has now introduced a special selection of menswear exclusive to Mytheresa.

The Neiman Marcus-owned German retailer has introduced a new push for the menswear market, headed for the season by its special Valentino range. Encompassing a host of layering pieces and statement items alike, the collection keeps in line with Valentino’s luxury ethos by way of premium gabardines and lavish satin textiles. A bold “city” print lends visual appeal to a wide array of goods — including a technical car coat, jacket and silk shirt — that complements the immediate interest garnered by a special pair of heavyweight Garavani VLTN WOD sneakers.

Source:Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

Fear of God Essentials Drops Latest Selection of Minimalist Staples

Ahead of its upcoming Converse release, Fear of God Essentials has dropped its latest selection of minimalist staples. Part of its Spring/Summer 2020 releases, the selection is centered around lightweight fleece options and lounging essentials.

Leading the set are the Polar Fleece items which include a vest with diagonal cut sleeve openings, relaxed fit hoodie, half-zip sweater, three-pocket styling lounge pants and reflective detail shorts. Other garment offerings include Earth-tone Core T-shirts and matching Canvas Lounge Pants. Rounding up the drop are takes on Essentials’ Distance Sneaker, Backless Sneaker and simple slip-on Laceless Sneaker.

Priced between $35 and $215 USD, Fear of God Essentials latest SS20 release is available now at SSENSE.

Source: Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

Moncler and Rick Owens Offer Closer Look at Tour Bus and Collaborative Apparel

After introducing the surprise tour bus collaboration, Moncler and Rick Owens have offered a slightly more intimate look at the bus and collaborative apparel. Inside, one can see a muted gray interior, complete with matching facilities and a spread of special puffer jackets.

Created especially for Owens and wife Michèle Lamy to travel America’s West Coast, the custom tour bus is all-gray on the inside, with a matching sink/toilet hybrid. In line with Owens’ blunt interior design, the bed is placed on an elevated slab that complements the flat, raised couch upholstered in vintage army blankets. Laden with a full rack of puffer jackets and other collaborative garments, the bedroom also plays host to a padded wall, which encircles the room and reaches up to the ceiling.

Expect the Moncler x Rick Owens garments to launch in late 2020 alongside the made-to-order bus — the duo have specifically not yet offered an exact release date.

Source: Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

Raf Simons Announced as Co-Creative Director of Prada

Miuccia Prada & Raf Simons

After months of speculation — including the rumor that he would be joining Miu Miu — Raf Simons has officially been announced as Co-Creative Director of Prada, beginning on April 2. The move sees the Belgian designer work alongside Miuccia Prada, with “equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making” between the pair.

In joining the Italian label, Simons becomes the first person outside of the Prada family to lead the house. It also continues his relationship with the company, where he worked as Creative Director of the then Prada-owned Jil Sander from 2005 until 2012.

The first Prada collection from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will be for Spring/Summer 2021, and will be unveiled in September this year.

Source: Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

FREDERICK ANDERSON NYFW F/W20

"I love women and design clothing to enhance and empower individuality.   I believe fashion is your conversation with the world... If so then speak with an individual and authentic voice."

Frederick Anderson

Are you ready for Fall 2020 chic?

Empowering individuality is exactly what designer Frederick Anderson achieved with his FW20 NYFW collection - and a whole lot more. His use of juxtaposition made for a visually engaging and desirable collection. Anderson played with contrasting styles, looks and textiles. The delivery was attitude in its purest voice.

The uptown girl, in all her lace and tweed met her edgy, downtown self with sheers, hooded fur-lined coats, metallics and faux-hawks.

FASHIONADO