CAAFD Emerging Designers Outshine During NYFW S/S20 Collective Showcase

CAAFD Emerging Designers Outshine During NYFW S/S20 Collective Showcase

The Council of Aspiring American Fashion Designers yet again unveiled various emerging brands during New York Fashion Week.  CAAFD welcomed six thoroughly screened, approved and selected brands from around the globe representing their country of residence or origin. Among the newly selected and returning brands were:  Moon Chang, A Humming Way, Farida Temraz’s Temraza, María Sonia, Yufash and Phoenix Ba. Collectively the brands showcased their spring/summer 20 collections after each other. Individually, the brands exquisitely showcased their unique work of art and passion, exhibiting mix of bright colors, elegance, flare, couture,  and some edgy. With a fully packed, standing room only, six designers showcased at one sitting. Fashion professionals and celebrities among the audience waited patiently as each brand took their turn to grace the runway.   

Egyptian designer Farida Temraz opens the show,  presented her couture brand 'Temraza' with flare and elegance. Though the designer has made quite a name for herself in the red carpet circuit in the previous two-three years, this was Farida Temraz's first being listed on the official fashion week schedule as part of CAAFD newly selected Designer and she did not disappoint. With a total of 24 pieces, the collection consisted of evening gowns, cocktail dresses, and bridal couture. The color palette picked by the designer was mostly pastel with the occasional electric blue and white seen in a couple of pieces. Temraza's common thread was the floral element which Farida Temraz used in almost all her pieces, giving them a refined and elegant touch. She presented with two bridal options - a trumpet gown with a halter illusion neckline with off-shoulder sleeves and a ball gown with ruffled sleeves completed with a veil. The gowns provided with a wonderful contrast between the modern and the traditional.

Phoenix Ba Spring/Summer 20 Floral Motifs Collection Exhibited Majesty. The Toronto based designer presented 15 pieces in her collection and showed surface textile techniques in her collection. Her opening piece was a double-breasted dress with floral motifs on warm tones. The collection consisted of evening wear with A-line and sheath gowns. There were also a couple of skirts, a pair of pants with a tube frill top along with a floral jumpsuit. She incorporated the floral theme throughout the collection as each piece had intricate floral work in it. A lot of different materials were used like mesh and tassels in a couple of pieces. Phoenix Ba's love for hair accessories was also on display as each model walked with floral hair bands or other floral hair accessories matching their outfits. Her finale piece saw a model in a peplum top and pleated skirt walking down the runway. 

Paraguayan Fashion Designer Maria Sonia Shines Bright with Colorful Silhouettes  - Her Spring/Summer 20 brings ‘hope’ to the mood and climate of the world. Think of Spring and every bright color that comes with it. And that is exactly what you will find on the runway for the Maria Sonia Showcasing at the NYFW. The CAAFD approved designer presented a collection of 15 pieces. The colorful collection has been inspired by the designer's roots and the scenario was quite different from what you generally expect at a fashion show's runway. The models walked boldly, freely on the runway, lifting their trains and showing them to the audience. It was a rhythmic dance as the model twirled around to fully show their outfits. Maria Sonia wanted to focus on the evolution and empowerment of women and on the runway, she did just that. Her collection was bright and playful. It consisted mostly of gowns and cocktail dresses. Though the silhouettes were mostly structured, there was a sense of free flow in Maria Sonia's pieces. It was topped off with the floral head fans which could be spotted on all the models. Overall, it was fun and vibrant. Looked like spring had finally arrived! 

Yufash Spring/Summer 20 showcased unisex collection. The designer exhibited a mix of casual, dressy and evening wears with simplicity in mind.  We saw men with t-shirts with bold shining prints and the ladies with glowing evening wears with technology influenced prints. The kind that when the light goes off you become the attention of the room as though you weren’t already noticed. Using various colors from dull to the brightest you can find on the color spectrum, Yufash brand executed elegance with minimalism. The long blue dress and the orange finale dress were few of our favorites.  The designer, Kadri Klampe is an Estonian-born, founder and designer who created Yufash as a unique and forward-thinking brand made for the confident and powerful women of the world, with all garments fabricated exclusively in England. Founded in 2015, Klampe and Yufash have since experience skyrocketing popularity, including having designs featured on the hit television series Scream Queens. Yufash is one of the few designers chosen as part of the CAAFD’s incubate/nurturing program, returning for her second seasonal showcase after her previous career-defining CAAFD showcases. 

A Humming Way Spring/Summer 20 Collection Met with Warmth and Excitement During CAAFD NYFW.  An Indian brand inspired by the old world regalia of the state of Rajasthan in India. With the support of CAAFD, this was the first time that the designer brand was showcasing their collection at the New York Fashion Week. The collection was titled "Matsutake," and represented the mushroom's characteristics of adaptability with utmost brilliance. Matsutake is also known to spread a feeling of hope and that is what Sweta Agarwal tried to emit through her showcasing. The collection had 14 pieces in total. It had a mix of cocktail dresses, gowns and jumpsuits all in a palette of soft pink, browns, gray and white. The collection had a lot of mirrors work to trace the roots from which the designer label began. A humming Way's entire collection was soothing and quite welcoming. 


Moon Chang, the brand to close the show, presented their Spring/Summer 20 Collection leaving audiences in Awe. Her Collection was titled, "Hybrid Beauty." It showed Moon Chang's personal journey during the time she was going through PTSD. The mood was set with the haunting yet musical music being played in the background. The models make-up was done in a way to make their eyes look swollen. She presents a collection of 11 pieces with the focus color being black. Moon Chang described how she survived the death situation with the words "Being Cute." In her collection, she incorporates cuteness with the use of ribbons, ruffles, and flowers. The cute elements with her oversized dresses created a contrast of cuteness in ugly places which is what the designer wanted to show through her collection. Moon Chang, as one of CAAFD favorite brands never disappointed. Her presentation were met me one word sentence, “WOW”.

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Tom Ford NYFW SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

How many times have you heard that the streets of New York are a runway? Well, the same is true of the subway, only maybe more so. There’s glamour and grit down there, same as above ground, but down below there’s a captive audience.

Tom Ford is the new chairman of the CFDA, and after starting in June his first move was to shorten New York Fashion Week. Simultaneous with the consolidation, designers have been producing more experiential events. We’ve seen bands, modern dancers, and a 75-person choir this week, but only Ford arranged for a private viewing of a disused platform of the Bowery stop on the J/Z line lit an electric pink for the occasion. Many of his 180 guests were surely subway first-timers, but the regular commuters got a big kick out of it too.

What is Mr. Slick doing in the subway? Ford’s notes made mention of the famous shot of Andy Warhol and Edie Sedgwick emerging out of a manhole cover. The subway also jibes with his new-since-last-season interest in simplicity. “I think that it’s a time for ease,” he wrote, “and in that way a return to the kind of luxurious sportswear that America has become known for all over the world.”

Enter look one: a jersey scoop-neck tee with the short sleeves rolled up to the shoulders and a duchesse satin skirt so white it was beaming. Not exactly subway-safe, it was low-key fabulous and synthesized the compelling high-low essence of the collection. Or consider another example: satin blazers cut characteristically strong and worn with elastic-waist nylon basketball shorts. “These torture me,” Ford wrote of the shorts, pointing out that he doesn’t let his son Jack wear them, even though his classmates do. “I’m always fascinated by things that ‘torture me.’” Ford didn’t play it completely contrary, though. The molded plastic tops were a luscious homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s Lalanne breastplates via Issey Miyake. And Ford’s tailored men’s jackets were typically loud and louche.

Connecting with one of the key messages of the season so far—let’s call it the nearly naked trend, for now—Ford threw a dress coat over a leather bra, cut a jumpsuit so it fell open to expose a strappy bikini top, and sent out a pair of slinky maillots. Of course, the millennial designers doing the same have probably been studying Ford’s old Gucci shows. That legacy of great American sportswear Ford was talking about? He has a stake in it. What’s new is old, that’s just how fashion works. Credit Ford, he’s expanding his vocabulary.

Source: VogueRunway

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Helmut Lang NYFW SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

Helmut Lang NYFW SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

Not far from where Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson staged their second runway show for Helmut Lang the brand today, an exhibition of Helmut Lang the man’s latest artwork was opening. Lang walked away from his company 15 years ago, and in the interim, it’s gone through its fair share of incarnations. Perhaps because of the significant amount of time that’s passed or maybe because of the recent success of the reissue concept, Thomas and Cawson are taking a very faithful approach to their reimagining of this famous label.

The reissue is a divisive concept. On the one hand, it’s a clever way to address youthful FOMO, on the other, it’s a design cop-out that doesn’t push the conversation forward. The pros see smart money and the cons insist fashion must reflect the present situation or it risks becoming costume. As with so many things, there’s a generational divide. The olds raise an eyebrow, but the youngs turn up in droves. Today, Jeremy O. Harris, Maisie Williams and her new boyfriend Reuben Selby, Charlie Plummer, Lucky Blue Smith, Selah Marley, and Paloma Elsesser all sat in the front row.

Millennials, it would seem, are the target customers. But in fact, what Thomas and Cawson are up to looks good enough that the Helmut faithful might be intrigued. Absent a few dresses that read too sweet, this was an accurate accounting of Lang’s signatures: the minimal tailoring, the utilitarian parkas, the sheer elements, the chromed leather, the touch of latex kink, the denim shapes. Reproducing the electricity of anticipation that used to course through Lang’s show spaces is a much harder trick to pull off. And it’s probably not fair to ask it of Thomas and Cawson. Lang was an original.

Source: VogueRunway

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Burberry Releases SS19 Runway Zip-Up Shirt

burberry-ss19-key-menswear

Burberry has released one of its most iconic Spring/Summer 2019 runway pieces, the “WHY DID THEY KILL BAMBI?” deer-print shirt.

The Riccardo Tisci-designed piece is steeped in history and references. The printed phrase takes after more than just one pool of inspiration, as it looks to the lyrics of the Sex Pistols’ 1979 song “Who Killed Bambi?” — which was incidentally co-written by Vivienne Westwood, who soon went on to collaborate with Tisci at Burberry — as well as Tisci’s time as the head of Givenchy, which delivered a number of iconic Bambi-adorned pieces. The print also nods to the fact that Burberry said it would no longer use fur in its future collections.

Burberry’s short-sleeve offering is made from cotton twill and features a half-zip down the front using leather hardware. The boxy fit is complemented by two box-shaped chest pockets, and on the rear, Burberry has added two pictures of a porcelain deer.

Take a closer look at this SS19 runway piece from Burberry in the gallery above, and pick it up for yourself from retailers such as MATCHESFASHION.COM for $903 USD.

Source: HypeBeast

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Alyx Spring 2020 Men's and Women's Collection

Matthew Williams of 1017 Alyx 9SM (his brand’s full name) didn’t seem to attach much meaning to his venue—a stunning, modernized bank building—yet two words projected loud and clear: big and business. This is what Alyx is fast becoming and what the combined men’s and women’s collections encapsulated with their assertive silhouettes and high-fashion positioning.

As the penultimate show of a strong week, Alyx was something to behold, arousing the glory days of Thierry Mugler in the 1980s while attracting the next-generation crowd that has brought incontrovertible energy back to Paris. For now, at least, Williams is committing to a more formal form of urban than his peers. For him, tailoring is not just an outward statement, but an inward reflection of mastery. “Tailoring is a really difficult thing to do as a young brand,” he said. “Some of the construction we’re attempting to do is trying to find our own language. I think it’s a nice challenge to define what that is for us.”

Arguably, his challenge is how to achieve that difference without appearing over-designed. From past visits with him, before he switched to a show format, he revealed his process as methodical, almost obsessional for the way he will privilege one detail over another. Chances are, he vetoed at least a dozen chains before landing on the one that repeats as a parabolic flourish on several of these looks. Other details—elongating panels, zippered knees, hammered hardware, sculpted heels—were fine-tuned in order to be fully integrated, not gratuitous. Elsewhere, outdoorsy pieces that harked back to earlier collections blended in while the draped dresses towards the end remained slightly unresolved.

But that’s just surface stuff; anyone who read the accompanying notes would have learned about the metal hardware sourced from a sustainable factory, the near-waterless leather-dyeing process, the three-dimensional printed seams and myriad more examples of innovation adding functional and psychological value to the clothes. Or, as stated in this succinct yet thorough document, “We engage with systems, scales, and soul.”

Williams, for his part, also suggested the designs gain dimension from those wearing them. “Our casting is a real mixture of models and friends and family—those people’s energy really brings out the clothes.” See Model 54, aka his wife Jennifer, who wore a croc-embossed jacket (the treatment of the season) and a corresponding translucent skirt. Enough of the guests knew her that cheers echoed through the space as though she were an international celebrity. It was a telling moment. Alyx, now acting all grown up, remains as independent and in-the-know as always.

Source: VOGUE RUNWAY

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MARIA ARISTIDOU FW19-20 COUTURE

CLAIR DE LUNE COUTURE

COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2019 2020 HAUTE COUTURE PARIS FASHION WEEK

Looking up into the night sky you feel motionless and mesmerized as you fall prey to the moon’s charm.
Whether it is crescent or full, you bear witness to an eternal celestial struggle for dominance between light and darkness.

The moon’s power and its magnetism are transcended to us through its light. It is this very moonlight that, like an invisible veil, dresses up the night and sets the mood. Whether it falls upon an ocean, a desert or upon a woman’s body it inspires romanticism, a feeling of mystery, elegance and seduction, a fascination with the female form.

Maria Aristidou’s knit couture collection Autumn Winter 2019/20 is an ode to Clair de Lune.
The cuts, the designs and accessories with hand embroidered embellishments on colorful, luxurious knit fabrics, made by the designer; they all accentuate the timeless romance, femininity and uniqueness that are defined in every flicker, every speck of Clair de Lune.

The magic of knitwear inspired the designer to first explore and then create, using luxurious threads, elaborate techniques and various knit patterns. The craftsmanship of detailed hand embroideries adds to the uniqueness of Maria Aristidou's fabric collections for the couture evening and accessories. The process of each collection production starts from the fabric design. Yarns such as wool, viscose, lurex, cotton, silk and velvet are ordered from France and Italy. Then, a series of patterns are designed in great detail followed by a series of tests to decide on the yarns that will be used for each pattern, how thick or thin the fabric, color sampling combinations, hand-embroidery design testing, quality and durability checks, etc. The whole design and production processes take place in Cyprus.

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ZIAD NAKAD FW 20 COUTURE

ZIAD NAKAD FW 20 COUTURE

TESSERA COLLECTION COUTURE FALL WINTER 2019 - 2020 PARIS FASHION WEEK


Inspired by the ancient mosaic, Ziad Nakad's Fall Winter 2019 2020 couture collection is an ode to architecture and geometry. Marked waists , oversize and asymmetrical sleeves are true technical features while giving an impression of lightness in resolutely feminine outfits. Silhouettes with embroidery embellishments like "tessellas" and "tesserulas" reveal an aerial mosaic. It is this alliteration assemblage that inspired the designer for the collection’s title.


A colorful collection, from blue to red, from gold to silver with black tips. Always concerned regarding high quality, Ziad Nakad mingles tulles and chiffons, lace and velvet, giving his creations an architectural and modern dimension, always reminding us his mastery in cuts and volumes.

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