Theory Fall 2019 Menswear

As luxury houses commit anew to tailoring and champion a certain masculine elegance, contemporary brands that tend to traffic in more casual fare face a quandary: to follow suit or not. Theory, a brand with its roots in officewear, back when offices required suiting, would seem to be better positioned than many other labels to succeed in 2019. Indeed, the company’s menswear designer Martin Andersson noted a behind-the-scenes focus on improving fabric quality. It was noticeable in a pair of suits, one black, the other a deep shade of burgundy. He showed layered knits, crewneck on top of mock-neck. The label isn’t giving up on that casual fare entirely.

Design and art world names both relatively unfamiliar and famous were among Andersson’s references for Fall. Faye Toogood’s Roly Poly fiberglass chairs, with their scooped seats and thick legs, seemed to inform his tailoring. A bonded twill duffle coat was cut with rounded kimono sleeves, and an unlined wool jersey blazer was constructed with raw edges. The results in both cases were clean and structured yet yielding—easy to wear. The painters Soulages and Rothko, meanwhile, informed the palette, with its understated emphasis on black layers and varying shades of red. All around, this Theory collection felt in step with the season’s dominant themes and talking points.

Source: VogueRunway

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Palomo Spain Fall 2019 Menswear

Palomo Spain Fall 2019 Menswear

Palomo Spain has returned to New York City, with designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo revealing his Fall collection on Manhattan’s West Side early this afternoon. There was a reason, besides his love of Gotham (he showed here circa Fall 2017), for the decision: “This season is called ‘1916,’ ” he said. “It’s about the moment that the Ballet Russes went from Russia to Spain, and Sergei Diaghilev and the Spanish avant-garde got together and created these mixed, unconventional pieces. Ballet has a lot to do with traveling around, going around in a caravan. We carry on with this attitude.”

There’s no arguing that Palomo Spain emits nomadic feedback: Palomo’s group, his tribe, is both dedicatedly fierce and fiercely dedicated. They go where he goes, whether that’s Andalucía or the Big Apple. This inherent tight-knitted-ness, plus his narratives—always strong when it comes to research and personality—are what make this brand so unique. And while the rearview abstraction of Diaghilev in the Iberian Peninsula initially felt a little dated, Palomo was able to entwine in it a modern heat.

That came with an expanded accessories roster (including sharp new slip-on shoes and doctor bags) and new textiles, like nylon. “My take on sportswear, taken into my universe,” said the designer. See: a wide-collared, short-sleeved optic white anorak, cinched at the waist, and styled over a netted dress. Another parka was done in velvet and finished with a massive bow. And yet another was made again in nylon, this time salmon-hued, curving from the shoulders to the hem in what had to have been a wink to Spain’s most famous designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Palomo’s variety here was wide but calibrated; a polka-dot motif, which deteriorated into melted bubbles, shone through with a Pop Art aestheticism, while elsewhere structured and tailored trenches nodded to the original designs of the clothing type conceived by Thomas Burberry. On top of that, there were sequined bodysuits, sheer slip dresses worn over underwear made in collaboration with the Spanish lingerie brand Andres Sarda, and a raven-feathered closing dress duo. The show’s soundtrack switched from orchestral strings to a gritty techno for the finale lap; it was a smart idea, as it placed these clothes, at least spatially, in a more contemporary zone.

If Palomo Spain sometimes feels repetitive, or if it still seems, at times, like too much visual reverie and not enough of an exercise in commercial practicality, it’s a forgivable charge. Palomo should be praised for the message he sings; his casts are always diverse, and they always include openly gay male models (being an out model can still hamper one’s chances at certain jobs). And with the weather vane turning in terms of male dressing—no matter how one identifies or what one’s sexuality is—the distinction of what is the norm will eventually be redefined. But in Palomo’s world, this freedom, this openness, this love—it’s all already deeply entrenched and steeped in irresistible appeal.

SOURCE VogueRunway

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La Métamorphose HAUTE COUTURE PARIS FASHION WEEK SS19

In the gardens of La Métamorphose, the woman is certainly a flower that opens, but this woman conquers her femininity. Though delicate in her strength, she is a multifaceted woman, muse, but also leader.

Pastels emphasize opened rosebuds, the whites for purity and light. The sharp shapes symbolize determination.

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Amiri FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

Sometimes the interplay of Malibu-level luxury—tie-dyed cashmere “hand-airbrushed in L.A.”—and demonstrative backwoods roughness à la “mud-dyed shirting” struck a discordant note at this Amiri show. Yet if you let the music take you, this was a generally beguiling cover version of an acoustic California troubadour masculine standard, presented alongside its womenswear equivalent.

Unusually, the opening movement seemed more evening, unless you are the kind of guy who wears his tight leather pants over pointed black suede stack-heeled Chelsea boots under a black bomber jacket etched in lines of music sketched in Swarovski by day. All black, it played Vibram soled suede bikers alongside tucked-in cashmere combat pants under retro-military tailoring and tailcoats, sometimes frogged. Many of the jackets featured shadow-embroidered guitar straps running above the shoulder and across the body, also in Swarovski.

Movement two incorporated first olive and then checks—and python-print chiffon dresses in red and gray for the women. The silhouettes stayed the same, albeit with an additional exhale to long, apparently roughly knit cashmere cardigan coats, tailored cashmere overcoats, and underlayer shearlings. What looked at first like narrow cords of climbing ropes used as belts were in fact chunkily jacked amp cords strung through belt loops alongside dyed coyote tails. There was a shearling-face guitar case—there were a lot of handsome guitar and mandolin cases—teamed with a shearling-face blouson. Jeans patched with panels of fabric used in the outerwear looked good.

Toward the end, Amiri faded to very near white. A long beige overcoat was worn with a cream leather shoulder-holster harness attached to two envelope-size leather pockets that rested alongside each pectoral. A contemporary fusion of ingredients you could pitch as Bruno Cucinelli–meets–John Varvatos by way of old-school Roberto Cavalli, Amiri’s fresh-feel arrangements made mostly sweet music.

Source: Luke Leitch/VogueRunway

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Acne Studios FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

When it comes to his part in the fashion playground, Jonny Johansson said this afternoon that he always feels like a double outsider: “Because we’re from Stockholm, which is from way outside [the fashion world], plus I’m from the very north of Sweden, which is way outside even Stockholm.” For this Acne Studios collection, Johansson harnessed the advantage that provenance from the periphery affords: fresh perspective.

Here, he worked to mash together many disparate elements into a newly coalesced menswear proposition. Farming has been a pretty rare reference at the shows, but it was present today in tractor-soled, half-length rubber work boots reimagined in leather; a flecked pale work jacket with a strapped satin utility pouch; and cow-print trenchcoats. He touched on late-mid-century bohemia and counterculture in the psychedelic swirl vests; superlong snoods with even longer fringing; and the colored snake-effect trenches, shirt-jackets, and moto pants. Shirts worn above high-waisted leather pants with carpenter’s pockets were semi-sheer and patterned with distressed chevrons in Lurex that Johansson had drawn from vintage soccer jerseys; these sometimes resembled Arsenal’s immortal “bruised banana” stripe of the 1990s.

There was stretch suiting in textured jersey, some nice long coats in soft velvet in hard colors (the pale, pale pistachio looked especially strong), fitted pants and tightly darted shorts in top-to-toe finely lined brown with lavender topstitching, and super-oversize work shirting. Pants featured vibrantly lined pockets that could be worn open on the hip, as they were in this show, but were also built to function when fastened at one side by hook and eye to the waistband. Accessories included rugged fanny packs and necklaces hanging with hollowed silver globes, partially sliced, whose insides were colored to complement the garments they were worn with. Whatever he says, Johansson these days is as inside as it gets in fashion; that outsider eye, however, remains.

Source: Luke Leitch/VogueRunway

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London Fashion Week Men's Street Style

Kicking off this season’s fashion month, London Fashion Week: Men’s saw buyers, press and influencers from all over the world descend on the British capital. The three-day event — which featured stand-out shows from Kiko Kostadinov, Craig Green and Paria Farzaneh — saw attendees step out in a mix of fashion week staple brands and emerging designers. Key labels for the street style crowd included Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Burberry and Fendi, all of which were featured with bold patterns and big logos. There was also a smattering of star power as Stranger Things actor Charlie Heaton showed up for Daniel W. Fletcher.

As well as the clothing worn by fashion week attendees, London Fashion Week: Men’s also featured a wide range of hyped sneakers. Silhouettes including the A-COLD-WALL*’s recent Nike Air Force 1, Martine Rose’s Nike Air Monarch collaboration and the Prada Cloudbust all feature prominently in this season’s best street style.

Source: Hypebeast

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FASHION MINGLE ANNOUNCES NYFW NETWORKING WEEK

FASHION MINGLE ANNOUNCES NYFW NETWORKING WEEK

Fashion Mingle, a fashion tech platform that has built a nationwide network for fashion professionals, announced today that they are expanding their networking events during New York Fashion Week to four separate events designed for different fashion industry audiences during NYFW Spring / Summer 2019 season that begins in September. 

By hosting networking events during fashion week, Fashion Mingle will use the influx of fashion industry professionals to create meaningful connections for fashion business owners. “New York Fashion Week is more than fashion shows. It's an opportunity to network with fashion professionals from around the globe” says Melissa Shea, Fashion Mingle’s cofounder and CEO. 

Driven by a desire to help local fashion communities thrive, the networking events hosted by Fashion Mingle will feature mentoring opportunities, connecting top industry professionals to fashion brands, retail professionals, beauty teams, PR professionals, and more.

NYFW Networking Week includes four #MingleMatch events, which is Fashion Mingle’s signature style of business matchmaking. The week begins with Influencers Unscripted on September 5, 2018 at LIM College, which is a panel discussion and networking party designed to connect fashion brands with micro-influencers. The panel of Influencers will include Batsheva Weinstein of Sunnies & Sangria, Grace Lee of Gracefullee Made, Megan Mandell of Honest Twenty One, and Tina Lee creator Of Leather and Lace

The “Expert” panel will feature industry professionals who can bring specific expertise to the discussion.  Handbag designer Parisa Wang, who just launched a collaboration with Instagrammer ZanitaZanita who boasts over 344,000 followers on Instagram and Christine Schott Ledes, cofounder of The Beauty Influencers and President of the American Influencer Association.  Attorney Eldonie Mason will share potential legal pitfalls that brands need to avoid when using influencers. Connie Chi of The Chi Group will give expert advice on successful strategies to build your Influencer brand. 

Fashion Mingle’s popular NYFW Networking Party which has been held the last two seasons of New York Fashion Week will include speed networking for the first time on Sunday, September 9th. Attendees will enjoy cocktails and mingling with industry VIPs at ROW NYC in addition to quick rounds of networking designed to make a “#MingleMatch”.  

Mingle Mentor Sessions on Tuesday, September 11 is for fashion designers who need expert advice from industry professionals in finance, fashion law, e-commerce, marketing, supply chain and production. Bring your notebook and pen to jot down advice for solving your most pressing business questions. Mentors include distinguished experts in fashion and retail, Amy Rosi of Aros Communications, Boaz David of Human B, Jay Silver of CBIZ, Lisa Morales-Hellebo of Refashioned and the NY Supply Chain Meetup, Shirin Movahed of Froese Law and Syama Meagher of Scaling Retail.

Throughout the week, Fashion Mingle is partnering with Consumers in Motion for Fashion Week Store Tours, taking retail professionals on behind-the-scenes tours of some of the world’s leading fashion brands defining the future of retail. Fashion brands participating include Rebecca Minkoff, Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, and more. 

More information about each event can be found on the Fashion Mingle website at www.fashionmingle.net/nyfw

About Fashion Mingle: Fashion Mingle is a networking platform for fashion industry professionals that is designed to bridge the gap between technology and the independent fashion industry. Co-founders Melissa Shea and Beth Smith combine their experience in fashion and technology to bring much-need marketing resources to fashion industry professionals.

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