Malan Breton Fall 2019 Collection

Opening the doors to The House Of Malan Breton is like stepping through into an immersive theatrical fashion experience . Breton revolutionizes silhouettes in ways that express modern techniques with couture techniques of centuries past. Taiwanese embroidery techniques are deeply sewn and rooted into the seams as well his soul. Gowns are intensely hand-sequined in rich reds and bold burgundies. Leather adorned in Swarovski crystals and Japanese fresh water dying techniques are a few of the masterful formulas used to create the luxuries of this collection. The metaphor of the snake slithers through the collection as a symbol of rebirth, transformation, immortality, and healing.

Malan Breton on his inspiration…. “What if we could know the stories of the mad man, the other side of life as told by victims, what if we could know the pain, the suffering, the loss and abandon that bring the antagonists to madness? What if in this exploration of the psyche we learn that the evil, the unkind, were once pure? What if we knew their joys and could save them before their last moments. This season I try to tell a story of a Norma Desmond type character, before she loses her stability. Before she throws away her freedoms for unrequited love. Before the world knows her as a diva and a has been. A murderess. What if After Death we see the hearts of those who society drove to madness, before their utter demise. That is my vision this season for my AW19 collection.”

Malan Breton’s AW19 collection is a blissful reminder of better days – and the promise of the return of luxury.

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Diplomacy NYFWM FW Collection

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A new urban men’s line hits New York Fashion Week. The Diplomacy Fall collection by designer Eric Archibald offers a variety of cultured-inspired clothes.

The purpose of this clothing line is to keep a fresh reminder of the art of diplomacy and the practice of consideration and courtesy. The brand firmly believes in individuality. Its logo represents the notion of living by your own rules. The brand states that the panda symbolizes peach, friendship, and strength. Its attire is the perfect representation of street culture, and it’s definitely attention grabbing!

Most of the attire is loose fit, oversized hoodies and spandex with various patterns. It’s ranging from solid colored to plaid and other designs. Its color tones range from vibrant yellow to cool tones such as gray and black.

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CHANEL Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

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In a show that was somber yet serene, a capturing of airiness and substance, of shrugged-on elegance and insuppressible delight, the farewell to the immense talent of Karl Lagerfeld was framed just as he’d imagined. He took us to a place high in the mountains on a beautiful day. It was a snow-bound haven—a slice of Chanel heaven, viewed from a distance that was poignantly difficult to bear.

There was an icicle-like tinkling on the soundtrack. Models assembled, one by one, on the snow-covered steps of a faux alpine hostelry, the Chanel Gardenia. It was hard, the suppressed anticipation of what was going to happen next. What is the correct form for honoring someone at a fashion show, someone who was always so fixed on waving away vulgar sentimentality, and who always had something hilariously skewering to say about the posthumous hagiographies of anyone he cared to mention? Karl Lagerfeld was the least sentimental of people. He loved his job and always regarded it as the task of continually living in the present. He reveled in letting it be known he had a “contract for life” with Chanel, which he enjoyed to the maximum moment.

Well, this is how it went. There was a minute’s silence. And then, Karl Lagerfeld’s voiceover, from a recent Chanel podcast (this man loved every tech advancement). He spoke in French, until the last sentence, where he burst through in English about his pleasure in imagining the detonation of a surprise on an audience in, “Oh! It’s like walking in a painting!”

The Chanel girls—his crew, the latest generation he’d encouraged and quipped with in the Chanel studio since 1983—were clearly conscious of the ceremonial responsibilities they had. They trod the “snow,” hands in pockets, insouciantly proving what a perfectly considered collection of wide-legged trouser suits these were—with long, swirlingly soft, checked tweed coats he’d envisaged in tandem with his longtime right-hand Virginie Viard.

That section was amazingly poised. Tailoring is a subject du jour, but through the filter of Chanel consciousness, we saw tradition, femininity, and an energetic projection of the shape of today. Let’s put it down here: The opening, some of the wide, pleated trousers, was incredibly on point—a flipping of the Chanel tradition of opening with tweed skirtsuits—with playful snowballs of tulle and crystallized snowflakes thrown into the back of the girls’ hair.

What Karl Lagerfeld never forgot—he was a rare intellectual pragmatist who frequently ridiculed high-concept fashion—is that clothes are nothing unless they are worn. That was Coco Chanel all over, too. It should be remembered that, by the late 1970s, few cared about her legacy. Her canon had been put in the shade by Yves Saint Laurent until Karl Lagerfeld was hired into the house by the Wertheimer family in 1983. It was Lagerfeld who irreverently illuminated the codes of Chanel—irradiating them in the constantly changing sidelights of the events of four decades’ worth of current affairs, the serial revolutions of fax, the Internet, social, and the global reach of fashion to new generations in Asia, and beyond.

He was always up for a topical gimmick and a punning accessory, but he also knew about emotional intelligence—that, and his connection with nature and nuances connecting the dots of his past, came through in his last few collections. The last big break he’d given his audience—the sight of barefoot girls running on a Caribbean beach—was superseded by this immersion in alpine sunlight.

So this collection was Lagerfeld at his uplifting best. No matter how dark the days were, his ability to throw on the icing of a ruffly white organza blouse, to sparkle up embroideries with a deft hand on a Nordic sweater, or to conjure dream dresses within any theme to which his huge imagination traveled. These were the gifts he gave to fashion. Today, as always.

As the models dashed away tears, and the audience stood in gratitude to applaud, the unforgettable memory of Karl Lagerfeld’s elegant, frivolous mind was lifted onto the Olympus of the fashion greats.

CHANEL Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

Source: VogueRunway

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THE TURKISH GROUP SHOW – NYFW FALL/WINTER 2019

Photos: Elvia Gobbo

Photos: Elvia Gobbo

The snow falling outside couldn’t dampen the upbeat, celebratory spirits of those that braved the elements to support three Turkish designers who made their NYFW debut on the runway of Industria Studios in the heart of the West Village.  Under the simple moniker “The Turkish Group Show”, Buket Özkalfalar, Gökhan İldeniz & Firat Neziroglu, each showed strong visions that truly demonstrated their place in the show, which was sponsored by the Turkish Government as well as the Turkish Textile Council, was truly deserved

Buket Özkalfalar – Buket Ozkalfalar seemed to be channeling a Goth version of the Great Gatsby when her pen took to the sketch pad.  Inventive versions of flapper dresses mixed seamlessly with futuristic frocks, many finished off with red carpet worthy Black evening coats.  Feather accents softened the collection & provided an overtone of whimsy & added yet another dimension to the collection of this notable newcomer 

 Gökhan İldeniz – Gökhan İldeniz presented a casual vision of menswear for his Fall 2019 collection NYFW debut.  Based mostly in denim with a serious dose of hand hewn, artisanal detailing like whip-stitching, patch-work, & inventive dying techniques that gave a broken-in, pre-worn, comfortable feel.  The roughly cut, raw pelt-like furs added a rugged, almost costume like fee

Firat Neziroglu – Menswear designer Firat Neziroglu, presented a collection that was pleasantly conflicted between dressy suiting & artsy-craftsy handmade separates.  In some cases, the dichotomy coexisted on one piece such as the rope closures on suit jackets or the yarn-based details on jackets & at other times, the two worlds were artfully mixed in an ensemble like the heavy, hand woven scarves worn over tailored outerwear & giant, open gauge hand knit cardigans over suiting jackets & trousers.

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Opera Carolina Presents a Recycled Runway Show at Paris Fashion Week

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Opera Carolina’s Opera Recycles sustainable couture program will show at Paris Fashion Week on March 4.


Opera Carolina will travel over 4,000 miles to Paris to present “Opera Recycles,” an eco-couture fashion show at Paris Fashion Week on March 4 at the InterContinental Paris - Le Grand. This unique opportunity will showcase the art of opera and environmental conservation on an international scale.

Opera Recycles is a program that promotes environmental awareness by creating couture fashion using recycled printed materials. In the four years since it launched, more than 36,000 pieces of marketing materials, such as old playbills and postcards, have been used to create couture gowns and fashionable statement pieces. This program is a part of Opera Carolina’s initiative to encourage sustainability efforts amongst the community. No other for-profit company or non-profit organization uses its printed material to create couture fashion, making Opera Carolina unique in the Carolinas region.

“This has exceeded my expectations,” said Megan Miller, Opera Carolina’s marketing director. “Not only has this initiative help promote the importance of sustainably and environmental conservation but we also showcased our local models and designers to bring a piece of Charlotte to New York.”

Opera Carolina is presenting eight recycled dresses created by six local designers; Lyndsee Hairston, Malou Tabada Cordery, Sarah Danee, Itala Flores, Rocio Llusca and Edelweiss De Guzman. Opera Carolina is representing the city of Charlotte while promoting the importance of environmental conservation.

Oxford Fashion Studio Showcase produces 100+ runway shows across all fashion capitals showing 600+ designers from over 70 countries.

Opera Carolina promotes the Opera Recycles program around the city of Charlotte, and on a national and international stage as a way to introduce opera to new audiences all while promoting sustainability effort.

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HAKAN AKKAYA’S GLAM ROCK COLLECTION – NYFW FALL/WINTER 2019

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Was it a 1970’s “Glam Rock” concert or the Hakan Akkaya Fall 2019 collection?  That was the question on everyone’s mind as they sat along the U-shaped runway at Spring Studios on Sunday.  The Istanbul based designer presented his 3rd collection as part of NYFW in the cavernous Gallery I.  The massive space was filled to the brim with an audience dressed to impress, perfectly complementing the show-stopping looks that walked.

 Black, White & Metallic Silver, with a small dash of Metallic Pinks thrown in as an accent, made up every look of the collection of a Women’s & Men’s full designer range.  The cameras & phones went a-flutter when the key looks appeared.  The various looks in Black with Silver studs & spikes for Women proved to be audience favorites as did the range of inventive, body-con dresses, some with incredible sleeve and super strong shoulder details.  A range of Black & White, bold-striped faux furs for both Men & Women had every person in the room taking notice. 

 As the finale walk-around commenced, the entire audience shrieked their approval, only to ramp it up even more when designer himself, Hakan Akkaya, walked the entire runway, nearly floating with pride as he blew kisses to his legions of fans, new & old alike.

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Lela Rose Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

Lela Rose Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear

Lela Rose’s fashion week presentations (and Resort presentations, and bridal presentations) can make your day. It doesn’t matter how stressed out or sleep-deprived you are; you can always expect to feel fairly revived by the good vibes, great music, delicious treats, and even better cocktails at her shows. The waiters at today’s unveiling were passing out greyhounds—i.e., grapefruit and vodka over ice—and it was the first of many puns related to the main event.

The runway was covered in artificial turf, with a low picket fence around the perimeter and a series of pedestals. It was also the first time this reviewer has ever been asked if I was “okay with dogs” before going backstage. We all had an inkling there’d be something particularly cute about this show, of course: The invitation was a blue first-place ribbon with “Roseminster Dog Show” printed in gold. The official Westminster Dog Show happened in New York tonight, as luck would have it, and as a lifelong dog lover, Rose decided to host her own version. Along with a dozen models, she cast a variety of pups—some show dogs and some who are famous, like Riley Bean, an orange Brittany with 33,000 Instagram followers.

If you’ve frequented Rose’s shows, it wasn’t a huge surprise to see beagles mingling with Dalmatian minis backstage. She’s done garden parties, boat parties, and even a “Tribeca takeover” back in June, which was essentially a parade on the streets of downtown New York. If today’s campy setup distracted from the clothes at times—a few pups were too excited to sit still, and Jenna Bush Hager and Robert Verdi were on hand to deliver witty commentary—a closer look revealed some charming touches. Rose’s fellow dog lovers won’t be able to resist the navy dress with canine cameos for buttons, and there was a black-and-ivory “man’s best friend” print illustrated with bulldogs, Yorkshire terriers, and dachshunds. On a long-sleeve silk dress with pearl smocking along the bust, it looked surprisingly elegant, sort of like toile.

Subtler nods were the coats and box-pleated dresses in multicolored “King Charles” plaids. Silhouette-wise, Rose is feeling for higher necklines, longer sleeves, and leaner, more body-conscious silhouettes, like a slim camel wool dress and a cherry-red pouf-sleeve blouse with matching high-rise trousers. That look was part of the “Non-Working Group,” announced by a model holding a giant placard (a funny riff on the categories in a dog show: working, toy, hound, non-sporting, et al). Earlier in the show, there was a “Ladies Who Lunch” group, and the finale looks were “Cocktail Companions.” Told you it was campy! Rose’s customer will shop from all of those groups, but the best-in-show award goes to the knife-pleated midi dresses and column gowns with peaked pearl edges; they were at once vintage and modern.

Source: VogueRunway

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