Todd Snyder FALL 2019 Menswear

Sometime in 2017 Todd Snyder gave up big seasonal inspirations and started mining his own personal history. The strategy has worked swimmingly, leading Snyder to one of his best collections ever for Fall 2019. Boiled down, the lineup was a ’90s-does-’70s rendition of Midwestern Americana, with lemon and sky striped grungy sweaters, wood-paneling-color grandpa cardigans, rock star shearlings, Western shirts in dusty azure and pale rose, and an Iowa State sweatshirt (his alma mater).

Snyder’s own life story is so richly intertwined with that of America’s sportswear obsessions; since he started by producing smart menswear at Polo Ralph Lauren and then The Gap many years ago, each piece here felt like a walk down memory lane. Only rather than sepia-toned, this bit of nostalgia was in Technicolor: On the runway it was a rainbow of fluorescent lights to evoke a suburban basement, in the clothes it was a rich palette of jewel box colors.

In addition to these clever twists on menswear staples, Snyder also offered some more challenging ideas. Will dudes come around on superwide-wale corduroy trousers or an amazing technicolor puffer? On the runway, the collection was optimized for Insta-appeal. That’s a pro for the lethally suave gents that dotted Snyder’s front row, snapping away on their phones like dandy paparazzi. But for the consumer not familiar with the fact that underneath that street style coat is a pair of plaid trousers that evokes an Iowan fall made with tender love and care? Well, maybe they’ll never know. The high gloss of a fashion show has a purpose, but Snyder could benefit from being a little scruffier, a little more soulful around the edges.

Source: VOGUE RUNWAY

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Celine Fall 2019 Menswear Collection

Celine-Fall-2019

The received wisdom in menswear always used to be that changes in style were only accepted in minute increments, over decades: a nipped-flare suit in the ’70s (Yves Saint Laurent); a broad shoulder in the ’80s (Armani); a dropped waist in the ’90s (Alexander McQueen); a super-skinny suit in the 2000s (Hedi Slimane). But on the cusp of the 2020s, an entire new culture of clothes for men has exploded as a diverse and very young generation across the globe has become unprecedentedly engaged in expanding the possibilities of their identities through fashion. As Hedi Slimane made his comeback in his first stand-alone menswear show for Celine tonight, it was as if he joined a choir of voices which are competing for new-boy attention. The LVMH menswear shows this week attest to that: Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones at Dior, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Kris Van Assche at Berluti (as well as the rest of the vast spectrum of shows we’ve accounted for in Paris and London).

As a rock star of menswear—who made a second mass impact by triggering young men and women to buy during his reinvention of Saint Laurent between 2012 and 2016—Hedi Slimane reentered the boy-specific arena with all the conviction of the awesome marketeer of music-cult heritage styles the industry recognizes him to be. Hedi is Hedi, whatever the name of the brand he’s playing for: He’s trained his audience to expect nothing less.

The question of how he’d shift the needle again began with his opening statement: a black double-breasted suit, white shirt, black skinny tie, and mean New Wave shades. This is a moment when formal tailoring is in play again for the first time in a generation—and those incremental changes of detail still count. Slimane’s bid—by repetition—was to train the eye on specifics. High-waist pleats, cropped-leg length, laced-up flat boots, or the more familiar super-skinny leather/jean thing he’s always done. Then, a vast smorgasbord of layered jackets and coats, iterating a range of ’80s vibes: hints of a boy’s view of dad’s Armani-gray officewear, granddad’s country tweeds, and classic throwback rock-idol leather jackets and leopard-spot drape coats. Slimane can dazzle, no doubt about it. In the glamour stakes on red carpets, the sequined coats and jackets will threaten to outshine any competition.

But as for the real boys—the populist knack that Slimane has that will likely set off an avalanche of copies? The real thing this Celine debut spotlit was the accessories: the sunglasses, the ranges of black leather shoes (hello! No trainers here). And last but not least: the comeback of skinny ties. No Gen Zer has ever worn one of those. It just might prove to be the one affordable item to lasso kids into Celine stores for a look around, ahead of all the others.

Source: VogueRunway

FASHIONADO

ZIAD NAKAD Spring Summer 2018 Couture

"I am Demeter, revered by all, the power most useful for gods and men."

For his Spring Summer 2018 collection, Ziad Nakad decided to celebrate the "Goddess of Wheat" and "Mother of the Earth." Goddess who gathers the fruits of the earth and offers them to humanity; its cult is particularly flourishing in the countries where this wheat is found in abundance, in Sicily, in the region of Eleusis, in Crete, in Thrace and in the Peloponnese.

Like a bird flying over the harvests, perfectly free, crossing a colorful sky, resplendent and singularly geometric - the pale blue of the firmament mixes with the yellow and gold of the wheat, the green of the earth, the coral of the ocean and the  bronze trees at sunset. Wheat ears dot the dresses, a tribute to the most iconic representation of the goddess Demeter. Dress after dress, Ziad Nakad plays a subtle game that celebrates life in a precise mastered know-how and silk embroidered sublimated tulles.

Ziad Nakad created this collection for the strong woman, assumed, voluntary but also and especially generous. Inspired by one of the most favorable deities to humans, as a symbol of accomplishment and peace.

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Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2018

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Paul Surridge has a big remit at Roberto Cavalli; it’s not just the main women’s line he’s responsible for, but men’s and the Just Cavalli diffusion range for both girls and guys, as well.

Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2018. See Collection, includes menswear looks.

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