Rick Owens Fall 2015 Menswear

Over the years we've seen our share of lady bits on the runway, so why not a little cock-a-doodle-doo? Rick Owens gave us full frontal fashion, literally, with his Fall 2015 menswear collection. He was feeling playful. And that's okay. But it wasn't all peep show. Owens gave us handsome peacoats and cool leather pieces. In the purest form of avant grade (and I love this) the tribal-like robes are actually just a different, unconventional way to wear an outfit.

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Haider Ackermann Fall 2015 Menswear

Haider Ackermann presented a show befitting an avant- garde collection. Rather than "runway" the models made their entrance to a standing-room filled space and then hung out in another room where guests could get up close to the models. I like the balance of scale and proportion within the looks, from fitted to over-sized. But what interests me most of the rocker meets bohemian-ish collection is Ackermann's delicious use of jewel toned fabrics. So rich.

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Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2015 Menswear

Moncler Gamme Bleu went all Secretariat on us for Fall 2015. Or was it more like National Velvet? Or maybe it was none of the above?? Designer Thom Browne explained that the inspiration for this collection actually came from a down jacket he found in the Moncler Gamme Bleu archives. And as for the goggles and skullcaps - a last minute creative move. As usual, in grand and dramatic Thom Browne style, theatrics that I never get tired of, there was an abundance of abundance. From pattern to proportion.

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ETRO Fall 2015 Menswear

Etro delivered a menswear collection rich in texture, style and content. They maintained a limited color palette of luxe browns and camels and even toned down the use of their signature plaids and paisley. But not to worry pattern-lovers, they weren't completely non-existent. Vibrant pops of color likes reds and purples in the  sumptuous scarves complemented the earth tones perfectly. Another smart move by Etro was their subtle embracing of the current drop-crotch, track pant menswear trend and their use of tattooed models. This will surely appeal to a younger, edgier and broader audience.

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Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2015 Menswear

Ferragamo's creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, set the tone for the Salvatore Ferragamo 2015 Autumn/Winter menswear collection with a call to the wild. It was back to nature with a dirt runway and a virtual forest background for the Italian label. Ferragamo presented a myriad of sartorial textures, layered for the cold and to perfection, of course. Some of the coats featured embroidered birds and flowers working its way from the bottom and flying upward. It was a refreshing element you don't see everyday in menswear. But my very favorite element/accessory had to be the scarves. Or should I say SCARVES! They were dramatic and mammoth. They commanded so much stage presence and while some may argue that they over-shadowed the collection, I say nonsense. They were perfection.

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Brunello Cucinelli Fall Menswear 2015

This is what it's all about guys - clothing tailored to perfection and worn with casual elegance. Brunello Cucinelli has made Fall 2015 a must-have season. There is everything from excellent suits, trouser, blazers and even tuxedos, but the real take away with this collection is in the presentation. Its styling. Look & learn: track pants with blazers, puffy vests over suits, layers, lots of them, untucked shirts under sweaters, sneakers with dress pants, etc, etc... It's okay to break the rules AND remember, nothing is possible without a good fit. Now try this at home!

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The Best of Menswear: Pitti Uomo Streetstyle 2015

Italy, for the most part, is a pretty stylish country, but twice a year, the most dapper, trendsetting men gather in Florence for Pitti Uomo. (Except for me. I'm stuck in Atlanta, what-the-fuck?!) So, I have to rely on images, like the ones above, by acclaimed photographer Tommy Ton, to see what I'm missing. Simply put, Pitt Uomo is a tradeshow featuring over 430 vendors showcasing the latest in menswear, accessories, new designers and new projects. It's a few days of sartorial heaven. 

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