Thom Browne Menswear Fall 2016

Thom Browne revisted the "Gentleman" of times past for Fall 2016. Coats, bowler hats and a collection of fine wools stressed (or I should say, distressed) the point from wear and tear to mint condition, symbolizing age. Thom Browne's runway shows are always theatrical and always carry a message. [For me] the take away pieces are the coats - they are gorgeous! Especially the fur-trimmed ones. Everything else just faded. Well, except for one must-have accessory - the doggie carrying cases. I must-have one. Check them out in the photos above and you'll see what I mean!

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Balmain Menswear Fall 2016

The Balmain Army was in full force for Fall 2016. And its leader, Olivier Rousteing made sure they were in full regalia. It was an extravagant display with all the pomp and circumstance of a Michael Jackson / Madonna farewell tour during 18th century France for Marie Antoinette. That's not necessarily bad btw. As a whole, the collection is as beautiful as it's [seemingly] unwearable with all its embellishments, embroidery, rich velvets and minks, quilted leathers and sash-like belts. On the other hand, as so often in fashion, as you begin to break down looks and observe the individual pieces, there are some very wonderful coats, jackets and pants. 

Olivier Rousteing is an extremely talented designer who has accomplished so much at such a young age. He gets flack for it though, so in response to his critics and in defense of his art, Rousteing had this to say to Vogue and other members of the press: “Fashion is sometimes aggressive. I love, love, love fashion. For me, there is no aggressivity about army. I go through such a hard time in fashion, because sometimes some people don’t get who I am and what I do and my way of seeing things. So I think I build my Balmain army because when you build the Balmain world, sometimes you need soldiers more than models. Because I think sometimes fashion can be really rude—and try to destroy some designers. I went through so many things in my life and work in fashion. You know when you deal with bad critics—when you are working ’til 3:00 a.m. every night with your team—and they kill you? Fashion is a business too. I can understand criticism when it is negative or positive. But I like constructive criticism. And sometimes, it’s not.”

He added: “Sometimes, they go really personal because of my age. Because I am not 50 and I did not show more than 10 shows. So sometimes, they keep thinking that I am the teenager of fashion. I grew up in the eyes of fashion and the eyes of the cameras, and sometimes it is really hard for me. I can understand if you don’t like my aesthetic: But don’t try to push me down. I am working so hard and my business is growing . . . I don’t understand when people say Balmain is not about reality—it might not be your reality, but it is a reality of today. And if you think in London some shops are already 99 percent sold out—I have the numbers. So at least if you don’t respect my aesthetic, respect that I am a businessman.”

And there you have it. You tell 'em Olivier!

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ETRO Menswear Fall 2016

The softer side of Etro for Fall 2016. Etro delivered a beautiful menswear collection of knits, wools and velvets. And while there was some pattern by way of plaid and a couple of quiet paisleys, for the most part, this was the most subdued Etro collection I have ever seen - and that's not a bad thing! I enjoyed all the solids, actually. The tattered edged sweaters are an absolute must-have and the trenchcoats are quite handsome. A runway trend I've noticed from several designers and now from Etro, is in the cut of the trousers. They are fuller around the thigh area, some even sport a pleat, and they taper down the leg, no break. I like it.  

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Berlin Fashion Week: Porsche Design Fall / Winter 2016

Porsche Design Plans to Become Leading Premium Brand for Casual Elegance and Functionality in Men’s Fashion

The sports-lifestyle brand will show its new Fall/Winter 2016 Fashion Collection in Berlin. The focus will be on smart-casual, cool looks for the global business traveller. French-Canadian Pierre Costin becomes new Fashion Creative Director at Porsche Design.

Casual yet elegant designs for the global business traveller. With its new Fall/Winter Fashion Collection, Porsche Design is focusing on the needs of the modern man. At the same time, the brand Porsche Design Woman will offer creations for confident women, featuring masculine style elements and yet a wholly feminine look. “Sophistication” — outstanding quality and high value down to the smallest details; comfort, and cool, casual elegance — these are the main features of the new collection. Designed for people who want to relax on the plane, and then go straight to their meetings from the airport, remaining perfectly styled throughout. For those whose unobtrusive, smart-casual style demonstrates their confidence in all situations. Porsche Design intentionally combines formal elements with cooler, more casual style elements inspired from the world of sneakers.

A great example of this season's new style for Porsche Design can be found in the casual and distinctive Porsche Design “zip-out blazers”, which have easily-removable integrated light down elements, allowing flexible use across different climate zones.

Starting with the selection of materials and fabrics, right down to the ingenious details, new Fashion Creative Director Pierre Costin focusses on the technical, functional qualities of the design, thus underlining the position of Porsche Design as a leader in the men’s fashion casual premium segment. Eye-catchingly positioned colour details, and structural elements as subtle references the motor sport that is in the DNA of Porsche Design emphasise the modernity of the look. Apart from its striking visuals, the collection is characterised by the use of innovative fabrics and new technical workmanship to add special functional performance qualities; such as with the elegant, waterproof, reversible business coat, produced with the aid of laser cutting. 

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Z Zegna Menswear Fall 2016

This is my kind of sportswear! Z Zegna has produced one of the most beautiful collections of the season. The Fall 2016 menswear collection features well-tailored sportswear with an urban, streetwear edge that is perfect for the sophisticated gentlemen. Smart combinations of suits, down, zippers and color make Z Zegna as polished as it is clever.  I want every piece!

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Rowenta to Host Tonight's Designer Challenge on "Project Runway Junior"

 Rowenta, the leading manufacturer of high-performance steam irons, garment steamers and steam stations, announces its upcoming appearance on the premiere season of Lifetime's fashion reality series, "Project Runway Junior."  Hosted by fashion icon and Emmy Award® winner Tim Gunn and supermodel Hannah Davis, "Project Runway Junior" is a direct spin-off of the original series, "Project Runway," of which Rowenta has been a frequent sponsor.  This will be the first time the garment care brand will host a specific challenge.

During Episode: 08 "Make a Statement," airing on Thursday, January 21, 2016, at 9pm ET/PT, show contestants will use Rowenta's limited edition "Project Runway" irons to execute innovative, personalized designs and take their creativity to the next level.  Rowenta's "Project Runway" iron combines unparalleled heat and steam with a superior soleplate, creating a better glide for easier use. During the episode, Rowenta's Marketing Director, Scott Pollard will introduce the challenge to the remaining contestants alongside host, Tim Gunn.  
 
"We are proud to continue our long-standing relationship with the 'Project Runway' family," said Michele Lupton, Marketing Communications Director, Groupe SEB USA. "Rowenta has always been a leader and an innovator in the garment care industry and we're proud to support the budding designers of the fashion world." 

*As an added bonus for show fans, Rowenta will host a #ProjectRowenta product giveaway on their Facebook  and Twitter pages from January 19 – 22, 2016.  Three winners will receive a Rowenta "Project Runway" Limited Edition Iron with which to create their own fashion designs at home.   

The inaugural season of "Project Runway Junior" premiered on Thursday, November 12, 2015 on Lifetime and features twelve new aspiring designers between the ages of 13-17 who are competing in New York City for a full scholarship to the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, a home sewing and crafting studio provided by Brother, a feature in Seventeen Magazine and $25,000 to help launch their line.

View a sneak peek of this week's episode here: "Project Runway Junior" Episode: 08

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Canali Menswear Fall 2016

I'm a sucker for anything orange as it is my favorite color, so you know I am loving Canali right now for featuring so much of it! The pops of color came mostly in the neckwear, collar and knitwear departments. The color was a smart complement to the midnight blues, blacks and grays in the collection. [Very] fitted suits in a blue/black check, some double-breasted, and pony skin coats, perfectly tailored, came down the runway in abundance. I liked tucking the sweater in the pant, but be warned, that styling trick works best on the very skinny! I And while I am impressed at some of the sartorial choices and design elements presented, I didn't care for the wide lapels. Canali's creative director Andrea Pompilio is clearly moving the table forward and I say keep it up! 

PS... I really need [want] one of the pony skin coats or jackets...

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